Bigtreetech Manta M8P 1.0 shortcut. Burned chip

General Discussion
1

Basic Information:

Printer Model: Creality Ender 6
MCU / Printerboard: BTT Manta M8P 1.0
klippy.log

Hello Everyone,

  • Today I completed the bed PID calibration and left my printer at idle for a while. When I returned the printer was powered off and the power supply was turned off too due to the detected shortage as I assume (the green led on PS was blinking onece a while and the fan was off).
  • I found out that the power supply unit does not cut the power out only when I remove the fuse marked by the pink “circle” so I assume there is a shortcut on the POWER circuit. In the red circle I marked the burned chip which I can not identify on in the schematic.
  • The board does not want to boot by the USB with or without the fuse plugged in. No LED is shining too. Not counting the burned chip everything looks normal, steppers etc. From additional information I have shortened the 12V fan pin like a 2 years ago and only 5V/24V were working but the printer was doing fine since that accident.
  1. Do you guys have any idea what I can do to check if replacing the burned chip would bring my motherboard back to life or if its dead for good :frowning: ?
  2. If someone could point me the burned chip on the schematic and tried to give me any assumptions/RCAs of what happened here I would be very grateful :slight_smile:

Screenshot from 2025-07-08 00-00-42
Screenshot from 2025-07-08 00-00-421882×878 253 KB

klippy.log (1.2 MB)

2

Any chance you could get a clearer picture of the markings on the burnt chip?

I think it might be a RS8336 which should have the marking GMYll. I can’t quite read the markings in your image to confirm this however.

3

I’ve double checked the data sheet and the marking is actually GM(Y=Year code)(LL=lot number)

Looking at images online, this chip starts with the marking GM and the components around it point to it being a buck converter. Given the RY8336 is used for as the 12v converter for the fans and your history with the 12v, I’m willing to bet the burnt chip is the RY8336.

If I’m right, the burnt pin is the input pin for the chip. See if you can Carefully seperate the pin from the chip or the pin from the board if you have a soldering iron. Carefully cutting the pin will also work. After that, check if there is still a short.

If the board works after that, it’s probably a good idea to replace the fuses since they endured a short circuit.

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4

Hi, thank you for your time.
Unfortunetly after removing the pin the circuit is still shortened. Tomorrow I will borrow a multimeter from my friend and look for the source of it.
I have old octopus 1.0 with roasted STM. Maybe Ill canibalize sth from that board to replace the broken component of the Manta. Ill give the update if I manage to find anything.

5

Welcome PawelF,

Looks like U17 (step-down regulator RY8336) is blown as BoguesUser already mentioned.

BIGTREETECH MANTA M8P V1.0-SIZE-top_01_marked
BIGTREETECH MANTA M8P V1.0-SIZE-top_01_marked1920×1162 424 KB

Have a look at the blue frames, these are the relevant parts on the board.

The +12V output voltage goes just to VAN0 to VAN5 and VCool (schematics). Pin header P9, P10, P11, P12, P13, P15, P17 (pic above). See Manta-M8P/V1.0_V1.1/Hardware/BIGTREETECH MANTA M8P V1.0-SCH.pdf at master · bigtreetech/Manta-M8P · GitHub

VAN0 to VAN3 have the same orientation. The other pin headers are turned by 180°!

Could it be, you made a mistake when connecting?

Are you able to solder? You can get a fresh RY8336 quite easy for very little money.

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6

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