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Describe your issue:
I’ve got 4 printers, 3 of them are successfully transferred to Klipper, and the last one (Tronxy X5SA PRO, TMC220x) is problematic. One of the problems is too fast extruder movements. (it has a bit weared Titan Clone, which works fine below 38mm/s but Klipper seems to push it much harder)
I found that option “max_extrude_only_velocity:” in [extruder] section only affects “normal” extrusion/retraction moves and does NOT affect Pressure Advance moves.
Can anyone suggest how to limit ALL Extruder movements to certain speed?
It is fast from the very beginning. I can easily limit Retraction and Print moves (max_extrude_only_velocity), but I can’t limit Pressure Advance Movements
P.S. I can make the print very silent by setting PA to 0.00, but the normal setting for this printer is 0.9 and the extruder is way too fast and noisy at these movement speeds (due to wild PA extruder movements)
Extruder distances are fine as well. The Speed of the PA moves is the issue.
I begin to suspect that there is no possible variable to tune in Klipper… No documentation states this and no one knows what to do.
P.S. Seems like I will be doing Direct Drive conversion to lover PA value… and therefore lovering movements in PA
You can kill any extruder with PA. This mainly depends on the PA value you are using.
Most extruders will fail when PA exceeds 1.0 and my understanding is the reason is a lot of significant corrections are needed in very short intervals and this dynamic behavior is too much for the extruder.
Looks like i will be targetting Direct Drive then… Actually I was tired about this bowden setup long time ago…
However It is sad that I can’t use this printer anymore because I am unable to limit frekking Stepper motor speed
I’m not even sure if and how much it would be possible to tune down the PA speed since you want to bleed off the residual pressure and build it up again right before the movement ends, respectively restarts. Also, you need to stay in sync with every tiny printing segment and directional change of the toolhead.
About what PA values are we talking?
In general, PA has its limits, especially when:
Using long bowden
Using low quality bowden
Extruders with a lot of play / backlash
Loose / worn out / low quality / not locked bowden couplings
All these factor will drive your PA up until the point where it is no longer useable.
I think you are right and I am on the edge of the limits for the PA
My tuned value of PA on this printer is 0.9 to 1.00
With the Titan Extruder mechanics these movements look and sound AWFUL…
I will be targetting the DIY direct conversion, and most of my questions will be closed by this transition.
I think my printer meets most of your requirements for your “PA limitations list”
When increasing the moving mass of the print head this can be an expected result.
However vibrations/resonances can occur if your print head is not rigid enough or now excites other parts to vibrate as well.
Direct and bowden setups have advantages and disadvantages.
By any chance is that geared? From the bowden printers I’ve used I have come to learn to stay away from geared extruders when using a bowden. While it’s nice to fight back against issues of pushing the filament through the tube, its far worse in other areas, namely anything fast like a retraction. Max retraction speed I get at a comfortable noise level with gears is something like 35, without I use 85 and never needed to test any higher speeds. 85 is my default and it’s like a little whisper (and that’s running 6mm of retract without using PA). Just a quick little Shhhhh Shhhh.
First thing I would do is a get a good/new extruder if you haven’t already, doesn’t need to be expensive, just needs to be anything but what came with the printer in most cases if it’s all plastic.
I rebuilt the one that came with my Anycubic 3 times, each time modifying it more and improving on it. The thing still skipped randomly; in the trash it went. I bought a cheap dual gear extruder from Amazon ( Haldis 3D makes it $8) and it’s only skipped when there was an actual issue that was preventing filament extrusion at the hotend.
Grab some Capricorn tube, it’s pricey for PTFE but really not that much in contrast to anything else on the printer.
Lastly you can move your extruder, its nearly always in a crap spot. How can I say that with confidence? Cost my friend, cheaper to throw everything in one corner on one bracket. If you can’t find a good place to move the assembly, then see if just rotating the extruder will offer better movement. Essentially you want to be able to run a piece of filament back and forth in the tube while held in place near the hot end and extruder and not feel too much grabbing and binding while moving the X carriage from the furthest points on the gantry. I’ve seen setups that don’t bind for 70% of the movement but then get into that last 30% (or first 30% in the case of my current printer) and it becomes much more difficult to move the filament.
With that in mind, the shortest bowden isn’t always the best solution, a little more length can be beneficial if you feel a significant reduction in drag on the filament when moving it in the tubing.
Hope any of that helps, bowden do suck for many reasons but the last bowden printer I had would print better detailed prints than my custom built Prusa MKII which I put around $500+ into. The MKII annihilated it on speed and ease of use though Press print, throw deuces, see you when ur done… When bult right, those things can be a tank.
