PA causes additional stress for the extruder because it very fast adapts the extruder movements to compensate the pressure build up in the nozzle.
The higher the PA the more stress for the extruder and at a certain point the extruder motor and mechanics are no longer able to physically follow this.
This value is much too high. Anything above 1 has a good chance of causing more issues than do any good.
On a proper setup and good quality bowden extruder you should get away with values between 0.6 and 0.8
Make sure:
You bowden is as short as possible
You use a good quality bowden, e.g. Capricorn
You use good quality bowden couplings and locking
Make sure to deactivate all Slicer functions that interfere with PA, e.g. Coasting, Slicer internal K factor corrections, “Dynamic acceleration / extrusion blabla” etc.
Before wasting filament on PA tuning verify the obvious: print with disabled PA and check whether the strange noises are still present or not.
Check as well what @EddyMI3D mentioned: (partially) clogged nozzle. Maybe the bowden does not have proper contact to the nozzle or is loose and filament is leaking.
Such high PA values do stress your feeder extremely and often do not really produce better quality.
Maybe you can mount the feeder closer to the print head so that the bowden can be shorter and if arrived properly install the Capricorn bowden.
Otherwise with properly set acceleration, speed and flow even smaller PA values can be fine.
To cite the documentation:
Typical pressure advance values are between 0.050 and 1.000 (the high end usually only with bowden extruders). If there is no significant improvement with a pressure advance up to 1.000, then pressure advance is unlikely to improve the quality of prints. Return to a default configuration with pressure advance disabled.
The nozzle is rarely the problem for such an issue!
Important on such a 4.1 bowden setup is that the bowden is cut totally flat and perpendicular on the nozzle side and is properly fitting against the nozzle end with slight pressure.
This ensures no leaking of molten filament.
If you press the molten filament by hand through the hotend it does not say anything other than there is no permanent obstruction.
This topic can be very frustrating… And chinese hotends right from the factory are prone to such issues!
I would also not recommend this line method anymore.
It might seem to be a time-saver, but is highly susceptible to your first layer quality. Better use the method as described in the official Klipper documentation.