Hi there
I do have a problem with my layers
(Input shaping. pressure advance. Extruder) all calibrated
As you can see frist imadge ( front view ) is good but when were loking at angled view leyer lins are bad in z direction
Hi there
I do have a problem with my layers
(Input shaping. pressure advance. Extruder) all calibrated
As you can see frist imadge ( front view ) is good but when were loking at angled view leyer lins are bad in z direction
You deleted all the requested information when you created this post.
I’m curious, if you want help on a print quality issue which you believe is associated with Klipper, why wouldn’t you provide the requested information about your printer? Saying that you don’t think that information applies to you is not an acceptable approach to the issue.
Please start a new thread and provide all the requested information (including the klippy.log
) so that we have the best chance in helping you discover what your problem is.
What material are you printing here?
Looks like too much flow and or too hot.
So if the feeder is really calibrated then your slicer settings are wrong.
A sock on the heater block would be a nice upgrade.
hi @mykepredko i did believe that maybe i do have a mechanical problem and not a software one
Iam really sorry aim going to provide klippy.log as you asked
Printer Model: (custom made ( pursa bear like))
MCU / Printer board: btt octopus pro h723 and btt cb1 bord as a rasbery pi alternative
Host / SBC (don’t Khow what is sbc in klipper )
(my printer klippy log is 18 mg and website do not allow me to upload it here so i uploaded it on goggle drive and shared the link here)
about material its abs and about tmep iam using 250c (as maker of filament specified) about slicer setting i realy dont khow what should i change
about sock on heater block i will add it as soon as possible
You should be able to .zip your klippy.log
and put it here - not everybody can access Google Drive.
The “SBC” is the computer you connect the Octopus Pro to.
Hi
My sbc is btt cb1 bord
Ikhow ikhow
But the thing is my klippy log is 18 megabytes!!
And if i zip it its not going to be under 8 megabyte!!
And this website dose not allowe to uplod a file bigger than 8 megabytes
A weird thing happened!!
Last night wen i was printing and you asked for klippy.log it was 18 megabyte !!
Now ( after restarting the machine ) its 4.69 megabyte!!
klippy.log.txt (4.5 MB)
Weird
Also i forgot mentioning that wehn i print round onjects i usuly get this ( again weird ) things on print
I just took a quick look at your latest klippy.log
. A few comments back.
Now, you have two Z axis motors but you’re not using z_tilt_adjust
? Are you tying the outputs of the two steppers together?
If your problem layer lines are at one side of the print, then you may have a problem with how the Z axis motors are working/not working in tandem.
Secondly, you don’t need to specify hold
current - in fact it’s recommended that you don’t. This doesn’t affect anything that you’re seeing but you might want to comment out/delete those statement parameters.
When I look at your images, you seem to have a lot of waviness in your horizontal perimeters. I don’t think that will affect the spacing between lines but is there any chance there’s a stress build up in your printer at certain positions - this goes back to asking if there are any consistent situations where the line problems show up?
What slicer are you using? Do you have any unusual start code in it?
hi @mykepredko
about z_tilte_adjust
I don’t use it because it adjusts z axis about the print surface and not y axis shaft
and also, I use two stepper drivers because I don’t want to drive two stepper motor with one driver (it makes the driver get hot or stepper motor holding power weak)
( i don’t Khow which one is good adjusting about bed or y axis rods) (bot i adjust it about y axis rods then i do try to level bed with feeler gauge tape until i reach bed mesh range under 200 microns
and about specifying hold current i did specify that because without it my stepper drivers (mks tms2240) get hot (more than 50 c) ( i want them to stay cool because they are expensive and hard to find in my country
short answer no
today i discovered some weird things again!!
i did increase layer line to 300 microns and printed super fast (4500mm/ss acceleration 20 square corner velocity 90mm/s outer wall and 120 mm/s inner wall) and to my surprise
it did turn out much more cleaner
also i did find sone problems in my z axis
look at coupling
its kind WAWE
and also look what happens when i order z axis to move 1 mm
also, about slicer start and end g cods
For you Z-axis stepper to lead screw couplers:
When you put them together, did you make sure the leadscrew and the stepper shaft are touching? If there is any kind of space between them then the gantry can bounce up and down leading to problems with the spacing as the print takes place.
hi @mykepredko and thank you
I Alway assumed that lead screw shod be in green line and motor shaft in red line
now I Khow both of them should be at read line
this change made my 3d printer much better in layer line
but i did find another problem
and also, this part of extruder is wobble to !
I’m glad that helped you out.
As for what you are calling “torn”. If the extruder tension arm is moving, then you should probably look at your nozzle. I suspect that you might have a metal chip in there that is periodically blocking the hole.
What type of nozzle do you have, how old is it and what happens when you replace it?
this nozzle is 0.4mm harden steel volcano
its quite old
i did changed it now to a new 0.6mm bot extruder arm is still moving (i take this when printer was retracting)
Im assuming that extruder gears are not round
If it’s just starting to do this and your nozzle’s old, then I’d still suggest replacing the nozzle, even if you have a cheap brass one around just to see if that changes anything.
It looks like a cheap extruder (I’ve had one or two of those over the years) but I still recommend trying a new nozzle first.