Just to clarify: Either you have GND or a negative voltage.
-24V and 24V makes 48V
Don’t mix up GND with this negative voltage stuff.
There are actually PSUs with -24V, GND and 24V clamps.
Thanx. Did you check with the two USB cables removed? In that case, you should have open circuits between the 24V PSU and the 5V PSU negative voltages as well as between the CANable and both of the supplies.
Now, just some follow up questions on the wiring (and follow up with the comment from @EddyMI3D):
- How are you wiring the line in power into the 24V PSU and the 5V PSU? Do you have LINE going into “L” on the two power supplies and NEUTRAL going into “N” on the two power supplies?
- What about the EARTH from the line in power? Where is it connected? I would expect that it goes to the printer’s frame as well as the GND Symbol (upside down TV Antenna) on the 24V PSU and 5V PSU.
- How are the 24V PSU and the 5V PSU mounted to the frame?
@EddyMI3D is right, there may be a few 3D printer power supplies that are marked with something like as being 24V with a “+24V” and a “-24V” along with a GND and being marked as being a “24V Power Supply”. You typically see that on PC power supplies that are labeled as being “12V”. But I don’t think that’s the case here as you have a Voron 2.4, I expect that you’re working with the standard Mean Well LRS-200-24 or LRS-350-24 that many people (me included) use along with the RS-25-5 (or IRM-605ST which I use) so I don’t think anything will have a “Gnd” pin that is different from the negative voltage.
I’m picking up on the post from @EddyMI3D as I wonder if you have something that is causing a ground shift and when you put in the explicit wires, you’re getting a consistent ground (which is a good thing) but there is current flowing through it (which ranges from quite bad to extremely bad).
Again, with the wiring diagram you put a few days ago, you shouldn’t need to put in these extra ground wires.
Could you please confirm how you wired your AC line in with regards to the two power supplies?
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What wire gauge do you use for the 24V rails from PSU to the Octopus board and the EBB36?
And what gauge for the 5V rails?
Hey guys, apologies for late reply, I was down with the flu. @mykepredko, to answer your questions, with USB cables removed, I had no continuity between grounds.
About power line wiring: it is wired exactly as per the Voron 2.4 assembly manual. I double-checked it. To save time on drawing new diagram, I’m just attaching one from the manual. My wiring matches this.
And yes, I do have earth connected to the frame. I used a dremel to expose bare metal on one of the frame members, drilled and tapped an M3 hole, clamped the earth wire with a bolt, and checked for continuity. Both PSUs are mounted to the frame using 3D printed brackets that attach to the DIN rails. Also as per the manual.
@EddyMI3D , thank you for clarification on the markings. My PSUs have “V+” and “V-” marked on them. I must have mistaken that for “+24V” and “-24V” by looking at some examples on the internet or something. My apologies. In any case, multimeter shows 24V between them, so it’s a regular PSU. Same with the 5V one. To answer your last question, I was using 18 gauge from PSU to Octopus. For the EBB36 I am not sure - the wires from the kit I linked to previously, it doesn’t state what gauge it is. For the 5V rails, also 18 gauge.