Klipper install Anycubic kobra 2

Hello all fantastic work on all this I have managed to set everything up and have it all working. I have a noob question. using @Function3D cofig and macros using the unload filament macro just extruded filament and dose not release it like the default AC merlin firmware is this normal and i just need to cut the filament then extrude the remainder or should it unload it like the default system. Thx again all involved.

I have never used those macros, I have revised them and simplified them, replace them in the macros.cfg file with these ones

[gcode_macro LOAD_FILAMENT]
gcode:
    {% set speed = params.SPEED|default(180) %}
    SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=load_state
    M300 # beep
    G91
    G92 E0
    M104 S245 ; set extruder temp
    M109 S245 ; wait for extruder temp
    G1 E120 F{speed} # purge
    M300
    M300
    M104 S0
    RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=load_state

[gcode_macro UNLOAD_FILAMENT]
gcode:
    {% set speed = params.SPEED|default(180) %}
    SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=unload_state
    G91
    M300 # beep
    G92 E0
    M104 S245 ; set extruder temp
    M109 S245 ; wait for extruder temp
    G1 E20 F{speed}
    G1 E-80 F{speed}
    M300
    M300
    M104 S0
    RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=unload_state
2 Likes

@Function3D maybe you can help me again. i donā€™t get any usb output at all. sorry my english is real, so i have to work with translator

do you have any ideas what else i could do?

possibly this?
Debian 11 (Bullseye) udev bug - No board or serial found - Knowledge Base - Klipper

Thank you very much, that looks very promising - Iā€™ll test it this evening.

Please stick to the English language as we are an English speaking forum here.

Compare the output of ā€˜ls /devā€™ with the printer powered on and plugged in and unplugged, use that as the path for the path in your printer.cfg

You mean after fix which @dockertj posted? Because currently ls /dev/ doesnā€™t output anything.

The device is created in ā€˜/devā€™, ā€˜ls /devā€™ should list many devices and a new one when you plug in the printer, that path to the new one is the one you can use bypassing the bug that does not create symbolic links in ā€˜/dev/serial/by-pathā€™.

hereā€™s the output - i canā€™t see usb, or iā€™m missing it - any advice?

Edit: After changing the cable, the printer was now found without any problems. Thank you very much for the great work

2 Likes

Hi my friend, thank you for all your work.

I have a small doubt, if I want the kinematics to be CoreXY, do I change that in Printer.cfg only or do I have to do something on the firmware as well?

I know I can just do a Cartesian cube (like ender 5 s1) but I want to try making this a CoreXY without changing the motherboard.

I bought a couple of used Kobra 2 and Iā€™m bored so this will be my next project.

Thanks in advance.

This printer is a bed slinger. You cannot change it into a CoreXY

1 Like

Very complex task, your minor problem will be the changes in the printer.cfg, you will need additional hardware most probably and create a completely new structure with those two printers, I really have no idea how to do it and I donā€™t think itā€™s a good idea

As people have said, youā€™re starting with a bed slinger which doesnā€™t lend itself to the CoreXY architecture very easily.

However, if youā€™re looking to learn more about different approaches to 3D printers, why donā€™t you try to make it into a CoreXZ printer?

https://www.corexz.com/theory.html

Like building a Ferrari out of a Fiat?

  1. Disassemble the Fiat to the last screw
  2. Throw away 99.9% of the Fiat parts
  3. Order 99.9% of the needed Ferrari parts
  4. Build a Ferrari utilizing 0.1% of the Fiat parts
  5. Apply a sticker that reads ā€œThis Ferrari consists of reused Fiat partsā€

SCNR

2 Likes

I HATE car analogies because theyā€™re always wrong, generally self serving and tend to be used to put somebody else down.

Regardless, based on what I see here, I would not consider a Kobra 2 to be a ā€œFerrariā€ (apologies to any Kobra 2 owners that are happy with their printers).

The point was that @FherraZ indicated that he had bought a couple of used Kobra 2s, was ā€œboredā€ with them and was asking what he could do to change them. Going from a bed slinger to a CoreXY would require basically throwing away all the mechanical pieces while going with a CoreXZ could use the base mechanical hardware, would require replacing the gantry with some specialized pieces and could be an interesting project.

Iā€™ve been busy lately but I am designing the carriages, Iā€™ll try to make 2 versions if possible, one using the motion system already in place integrating the Y gantry from the 2 printers into Y CoreXY movement and living the X as it is with the mods necessary for the new belt motion.

The other one I will try to design with some 8mm smooth rods I have from an old i3.

The Z for both will probably be a mix between the original Kobra 2 Z that already is in place but with the proper adjustments, and I will add an extra rod and screw at the back for a 3 point Z bed.

Hi, Iā€™m using this config with OrcaSlicer, but I get this error: Unknown command:"M420".
Reading on internet it looks like itā€™s to load the bed mesh.
Iā€™m having some problems printing (incongruency in the first layer, some zones are too squished, other are fine) so I have the doubt that itā€™s actually not loading the bed mesh.
Anyone can help me?

No, it doesnā€™t: G-code - RepRap

Neither with Klipper nor with Marlin.

Yes it does with Marlin - just read the paragraph below the one you actually linked to (because you linked to MachineKit) and/or read here: Bed Leveling State | Marlin Firmware

However, M420 doesnā€™t work with Klipper, so @CtrlValCanc you have to load the bedmesh profile as mentioned here: Bed Mesh - Klipper documentation - best would be to read the whole chapter about Klipperā€™s bedmesh.
Also make sure to have the x-gantry trammed, so that itā€™s parallel to the bed itself: Axes - Kobra2 Insights
Also check the frame and see if the Y-axis rail is trammed as well.
If you have everything done, always let the bed settle being heated up for ~15min (the longer the better) before actually probing a mesh or starting a print.
If you then still have certain spots or areas where you have ā€˜dentsā€™ and the ABL doesnā€™t 100% cope with that, you can add Kapton tape on the magnetic foil to equalize the surface.