Klipper install Anycubic kobra 2

Hello all fantastic work on all this I have managed to set everything up and have it all working. I have a noob question. using @Function3D cofig and macros using the unload filament macro just extruded filament and dose not release it like the default AC merlin firmware is this normal and i just need to cut the filament then extrude the remainder or should it unload it like the default system. Thx again all involved.

I have never used those macros, I have revised them and simplified them, replace them in the macros.cfg file with these ones

[gcode_macro LOAD_FILAMENT]
gcode:
    {% set speed = params.SPEED|default(180) %}
    SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=load_state
    M300 # beep
    G91
    G92 E0
    M104 S245 ; set extruder temp
    M109 S245 ; wait for extruder temp
    G1 E120 F{speed} # purge
    M300
    M300
    M104 S0
    RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=load_state

[gcode_macro UNLOAD_FILAMENT]
gcode:
    {% set speed = params.SPEED|default(180) %}
    SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=unload_state
    G91
    M300 # beep
    G92 E0
    M104 S245 ; set extruder temp
    M109 S245 ; wait for extruder temp
    G1 E20 F{speed}
    G1 E-80 F{speed}
    M300
    M300
    M104 S0
    RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=unload_state
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@Function3D maybe you can help me again. i don’t get any usb output at all. sorry my english is real, so i have to work with translator

do you have any ideas what else i could do?

possibly this?
Debian 11 (Bullseye) udev bug - No board or serial found - Knowledge Base - Klipper

Thank you very much, that looks very promising - I’ll test it this evening.

Please stick to the English language as we are an English speaking forum here.

Compare the output of ā€˜ls /dev’ with the printer powered on and plugged in and unplugged, use that as the path for the path in your printer.cfg

You mean after fix which @dockertj posted? Because currently ls /dev/ doesn’t output anything.

The device is created in ā€˜/dev’, ā€˜ls /dev’ should list many devices and a new one when you plug in the printer, that path to the new one is the one you can use bypassing the bug that does not create symbolic links in ā€˜/dev/serial/by-path’.

here’s the output - i can’t see usb, or i’m missing it - any advice?

Edit: After changing the cable, the printer was now found without any problems. Thank you very much for the great work

2 Likes

Hi my friend, thank you for all your work.

I have a small doubt, if I want the kinematics to be CoreXY, do I change that in Printer.cfg only or do I have to do something on the firmware as well?

I know I can just do a Cartesian cube (like ender 5 s1) but I want to try making this a CoreXY without changing the motherboard.

I bought a couple of used Kobra 2 and I’m bored so this will be my next project.

Thanks in advance.

This printer is a bed slinger. You cannot change it into a CoreXY

1 Like

Very complex task, your minor problem will be the changes in the printer.cfg, you will need additional hardware most probably and create a completely new structure with those two printers, I really have no idea how to do it and I don’t think it’s a good idea

As people have said, you’re starting with a bed slinger which doesn’t lend itself to the CoreXY architecture very easily.

However, if you’re looking to learn more about different approaches to 3D printers, why don’t you try to make it into a CoreXZ printer?

https://www.corexz.com/theory.html

Like building a Ferrari out of a Fiat?

  1. Disassemble the Fiat to the last screw
  2. Throw away 99.9% of the Fiat parts
  3. Order 99.9% of the needed Ferrari parts
  4. Build a Ferrari utilizing 0.1% of the Fiat parts
  5. Apply a sticker that reads ā€œThis Ferrari consists of reused Fiat partsā€

SCNR

2 Likes

I HATE car analogies because they’re always wrong, generally self serving and tend to be used to put somebody else down.

Regardless, based on what I see here, I would not consider a Kobra 2 to be a ā€œFerrariā€ (apologies to any Kobra 2 owners that are happy with their printers).

The point was that @FherraZ indicated that he had bought a couple of used Kobra 2s, was ā€œboredā€ with them and was asking what he could do to change them. Going from a bed slinger to a CoreXY would require basically throwing away all the mechanical pieces while going with a CoreXZ could use the base mechanical hardware, would require replacing the gantry with some specialized pieces and could be an interesting project.

I’ve been busy lately but I am designing the carriages, I’ll try to make 2 versions if possible, one using the motion system already in place integrating the Y gantry from the 2 printers into Y CoreXY movement and living the X as it is with the mods necessary for the new belt motion.

The other one I will try to design with some 8mm smooth rods I have from an old i3.

The Z for both will probably be a mix between the original Kobra 2 Z that already is in place but with the proper adjustments, and I will add an extra rod and screw at the back for a 3 point Z bed.

Hi, I’m using this config with OrcaSlicer, but I get this error: Unknown command:"M420".
Reading on internet it looks like it’s to load the bed mesh.
I’m having some problems printing (incongruency in the first layer, some zones are too squished, other are fine) so I have the doubt that it’s actually not loading the bed mesh.
Anyone can help me?

No, it doesn’t: G-code - RepRap

Neither with Klipper nor with Marlin.

Yes it does with Marlin - just read the paragraph below the one you actually linked to (because you linked to MachineKit) and/or read here: Bed Leveling State | Marlin Firmware

However, M420 doesn’t work with Klipper, so @CtrlValCanc you have to load the bedmesh profile as mentioned here: Bed Mesh - Klipper documentation - best would be to read the whole chapter about Klipper’s bedmesh.
Also make sure to have the x-gantry trammed, so that it’s parallel to the bed itself: Axes - Kobra2 Insights
Also check the frame and see if the Y-axis rail is trammed as well.
If you have everything done, always let the bed settle being heated up for ~15min (the longer the better) before actually probing a mesh or starting a print.
If you then still have certain spots or areas where you have ā€˜dents’ and the ABL doesn’t 100% cope with that, you can add Kapton tape on the magnetic foil to equalize the surface.