Uh,oh
On the same topic:
(mine)
A quick poll:
I use RPI4
Well, i willâŚ:
Hiya,
I know you want a quick answer but, as I said above, Iâve worked with Trigorilla boards and they generally take a quite a bit of effort to get Klipper working correctly on them. It seems to me that Trigorilla boards work acceptably well with Marlin (even though they have a higher replacement rate then I would consider average) but are not well suited for Klipper.
The easiest way to get your Anycubic printer running Klipper is to replace the Trigorilla board with something like a BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 or BTT SKR Pico. There are instructions, mounts and printer.cfg files available online that you can use as a guide for changing out the Trigorilla main controller board.
If youâre going to stick with the existing Trigorilla board then please photograph (Phone camera is fine) the motherboard in your printer along with close up images of any part numbers on the PCBâs silkscreen as well as the MCU - you may have to play with lighting and the camera angle so the part number on the MCU is legible. Images of the USB port PCB and any driver chips may be required, since you have the printer open and exposed, it might be a good idea to take pictures there as well (the part number on any chips by the USB connector should be readable).
The concern here is that you listed your machine as âLEGACYâ. Early Trigorilla boards in Anycubic printers used the ATMEGA 2560 (an Arduino processor) and then switched around 2020 to a 32bit ARM MCU. When you create your firmware, it has to be for the correct target.
With the images, weâll determine if the MCU is an Atmel ATMEGA 2560 or HC32F460 as is listed in the @Catnippr webpage. With that information, weâll know whether or not the firmware you loaded into the board is correct.
Next, weâll work at getting your Raspberry Pi to recognize the printer board. The other people I worked with had given up on trying to get the USB interface to work so soldered wires to the TXD/RXD pins on the Trigorilla board and were running them to the UART TX/RX on their Raspberry Pis - this was why I asked in the first place and assumed that you were following the same path.
Anyway, first steps first, please get pictures of your motherboard with silkscreen part information, MCU part number information as well as the USB port.
Iâve seen your page before and I reviewed it again last night before making my post and while itâs quite good,there is the implication in it that the user doesnât have to look any further.
@Sineos suggested to @windows12 that they review the basic Klipper pages to learn about the Klipper ecosystem, how to install Klipper and what to expect. This is really good advice and I think that should be part of your page; youâre obviously experienced in setting up Anycubic products and understand Klipper but youâre not providing your users with the basic Klipper knowledge.
There is the implication? Where is that so?
Sorry, but it seems to me that you didnât âreviewâ my site(s) properly last night then.
I do give people the same advice, I even link to the corresponding site and even chapters.
At both the GH repo where I offer the files as well as at the infosite where I offer those notes about Klipper on these machines I do have clear notes that one should refer to the official Klipper documentation.
Not only that, I even clearly stated that I donât offer a step-by-step guide at the infosite and linked to the official Klipper doc.
Just two examples:
- In the GH repo it clearly says: " Before attempting the installation process, please read the official Klipper installation documentation as well!"
- At the infosite it clearly says: " For further information about the installation steps please read the chapter âInstallationâ of the official Klipper documentation."
As for ânot providing (âŚ) users with the basic Klipper knowledgeâ: well, that depends on what your definition of âbasic Klipper knowledgeâ is, because I do offer some basic info, at both the GH repo as well as at the infosite.
But: no, I donât offer a step by step guide or further âbasicâ info or whatsoever. I donât claim to do so and besides that, why should I offer more basic info?
Itâs not my intention nor goal to offer another Klipper tutorial, thatâs why people should refer to the official Klipper documentation I linked to multiple times.
But: do I also state that one can find the necessary files there in that repo for getting Klipper up&running?
Yes, and thatâs the case.
Maybe thatâs the âimplicationâ you were talking about earlier?
Sorry, but itâs not my fault if someone has problems understanding how Klipper works or if a person isnât willing or capable to read the Klipper documentation I linked to multiple times.
I also donât see it as my fault to not offer more info about how to set things up - if the info about the process I do provide isnât enough for someone, then just follow the links and do some further reading around the official docs or whatever.
I offer the specific information one needs to compile the correct bin file, I offer the specific printer.cfg and some additional files and with that people can set up Klipper on these machines, just as dozens did already.
EDIT:
Just to make it clear: I really do appreciate criticism and Iâll mind your notes to improve my info there by e.g. adding a red warning textblock and clean up the repo when I find the time for that, so thanks for that.
Sorry, but all that isnât necessary nor true for the Anycubic Kobra Neo.
Suggesting to change the whole mainboard and even stating that this would be the âeasiest wayâ to get it running Klipper (especially when you obviously donât know this specific board and printer) is nonsense in this case, no offense.
Thereâs also absolutely no need to solder any wires to any pins or (maybe you had that in mind as well?) to re-solder a resistor like it was the case at the TriGorilla mobo of the Anycubic Kobra.
Getting Klipper to run on these machines usually is pretty much straight forward and as easy as it can be - if you have the files and follow the installation routine (and if the mSD card reader isnât bitching around), but Iâll let you guys do your thing then, sorry for interrupting (note: sorry, I hope you guys didnât get me wrong here - I didnât mean to sound cocky or harsh or whatever, so nvmâŚ).
Sorry, I donât use Discord, so I canât check on that.
As I said, basically you need to
a) make sure you have the correct bin-file,
b) make sure you have the correct cfg-file,
c) make sure you configured and installed both of them correctly as itâs described in the official Klipper docs and
d) make sure you find out the specific address of your Neo at your host and change that accordingly in the cfg-file.
In addition to the last point: make sure to use a proper USB cable!
Since you need a USB-A to USB-C cable, make sure you actually really use on that has the DATA lines assembled as well!
If you use e.g. a cable from your smartphone, chances are high that itâs only for charging, but doesnât have the DATA lines equipped.
So depending on which step youâre stuck, you need to either refer to the Klipper docs or try another cable.
If you need more help from anyone here, you need to be more specific in what you did already, how you did it, what exactly doesnât work and so onâŚ
There is no comprehensive description of Klipper, just âLong story short: Klipper is an âalternativeâ firmware which gives you way more possibilities and even functions for configuring and using your 3D printer.â and then you go on to a page about Klipper that would be of no help at all to a new user (https://all3dp.com/topic/klipper/).
Maybe saying that there is the âimplicationâ that the user doesnât have to go anywhere else is the wrong word, but there isnât any definitive description of Klipper or a high level explanation of the installation process.
My experience is with helping two people with Anycubic Kobras and one person with a Trigorilla board on another printer.
After each of these experiences, I felt like it would have been much easier to just spend $50 and put in a new main controller board.
My issues with Trigorilla boards are:
- Have no documentation from the manufacturer and what is available is from users, such as yourself. I would have loved to see a comparison chart of the different Trigorilla boards to help with understanding what features are available on the different ones (and how to identify the different boards).
- They seem to regard boards with ATMega 2560s equivalent to ones with ARM MCUs
- The ones with the soldered on TMC2209s need to have a resistor moved if you want to use serial communications on all the drivers
- Some (all?) use the CH340 serial to USB chip which is difficult to get communications working with Raspberry Pi, other single board computers and Linux systems in general
- Their bed heater drivers seem to burn out easily
???
The only âcorrect bin-fileâ, which I presume is the Klipper Firmware for the main controller board, is the one that the user builds themself using the latest version of Klipper.
Klipper is not like Marlin where a year old (or even a month old) image is âgood enoughâ.
Functionality changes quite regularly to support new hardware options. This is why when you update Klipper on the host, you get the message box stating that continuing the update you may change how the printer operates (with a check box stating you understand and want to continue).
You may be able to leave your Klipper installation for months/years without updates but it is very important that when you set up your system, the main controller boardâs Klipper Firmware is of the same version as the hostâs.
Well, maybe you should âreviewâ more attentively then and youâll come across what I was referring to and what you initially criticized.
As I said, neither my goal nor intention is to provide
any definitive description of Klipper or a high level explanation of the installation process
more than I gave there right now and which you now seem to expect.
Everybody who wants to read more about Klipper, how it works, how to install and configure it and so on could/should follow the link I put there at âKlipperâ, right at the very first beginning of that Klipper chapter:
My experience is with helping two people with Anycubic Kobras and one person with a Trigorilla board on another printer.
Ok, that explains a lot and is what I meant earlier when I mentioned the re-soldering of a resistor.
All that really isnât necessary and so complicated with the Kobra Neo anymore, trust me or donât.
As for your list:
- True. I contacted AC different times since Iâm creating those infosites for other models as well (Kobra Go&Neo, Kobra 2, Kobra 2 Neo, Kobra 2 Pro&Plus&Max) an it always was difficult to impossible to find out some further specs. Not only about the mobos though, about other parts as well.
You can have a look at the other sites, in the Mainboard chapter youâll find at least some photos of the mainboards and some specs I came across. If you have any questions or just wanna chat a bit about this topic, feel free to reach out in private as well
- Since the Kobra, I didnât come along ATMega2560 boards in their FDM machines (Kobra and younger Kobra models, like the Kobra Neo for example). Those were being used in older models like the Anycubic MegaS for example, but those are âoutdatedâ and usually ppl go with a different custom firmware (âKnutwurstâ) instead of Klipper then.
- No, as already mentioned, moving R65 to R66 only was necessary at the regular Kobra (which is older than the Kobra Neo) which used the TriGorilla Pro_A v1.0.4 board.
- Yes, CH340 and/or CH341 - just as many other mainboards or microcontroller use.
- Since I donât know which model you are referring to: no, you canât say that.
Apart from being vastly off-topic, this discussion seems to lead nowhere. I suggest you move it to private messages or discord if you feel the need for further exchange.
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The only âcorrect bin-fileâ, which I presume is the Klipper Firmware for the main controller board, is the one that the user builds themself using the latest version of Klipper.
Correct! And which I offer the configuration settings for, so that everybody can compile it on his own for that specific TriGorilla Pro v3.0.6 (and the rare v3.0.7) the Kobra NEO is using by just following the Klipper docs.
You might have not seen it in your review either, so here you go:
I nowhere state that someone has to use that outdated v12 klipper.bin I offer there. But donât worry, Iâll delete all the bin files to avoid such discussions in the future.
I donât really get this discussion anyway, itâs not helping OP at all and rather confuses him, talking about ATMega2560, soldering wires around and all that. Again: all that doesnât apply to the Neo.
Itâs not about if any of my files are maybe outdated or misconfigured and/or if itâs somehow complicated to get Klipper run on the Neo as you seem to be convinced of but which isnât the case.
It seems that itâs about if OP is able to set up a Klipper installation properly.
@windows12 âŚjust to make sure: you really do have the Kobra Neo though, not the Kobra 2 Neo, right?
True, thanks for that, unfortunately I did post an answer already before I saw this.
yes,i have the old neo
I used WAY wrong settings!
@Catnippr
What USB port is the one I should use?
Can I see a photo, or is it on your infosite?