BTT SPI problems from WOWElectronics continued

[mykepredko]

Select a board. Take a picture of the front and back like the following and publish them here like:

Next, put the board into your printer with the understanding that it ain’t never coming back out. If there needs to be be a reflashing of the firmware, it will be done in the printer itself.

Finally, put your other Octopus boards in a safe, take the safe into a boat, sail into international waters and drop the safe into the water.

When all that’s done, start a new “General Discussion” thread with all the requested information and follow the guidelines I gave you previously.

[gene1934]

how do I determine from the docs, which docs match the board(s) I have. I’ll take this one out and read the silk screen on the bottom, but how do I match it with the correct docs for this board? What I have are the only ones that have the full color pins image, docs cover page claims version 01.03,from July 19th 2021 but the poor images in it are V1.0. I just checked github, one octopus dl, over 200 megs, downloaded it fresh. I found another set of docs that claims its for an octopus pro v1.1, and have printed the pin file blown up big enough to read the pin nums, and big enough to read the mcu which says its an STM723, whereas the one I have in that printer now is an STM429. make menuconf change to a 429 if thats not what it is following the insructs at the top of printer.cfg. This pin pix, does not have the driver pinouts for the serial modes. Its late, I’ll be back when I have it programmed/set for a 429.

[gene1934]

This has turned into a cf for all of us. The way I’m doing the higher voltages does not need to involve these boards and would work just as well on some other board like a manta8. Would that board be an easier, more stable board to use? I’d rather not get involved with mks again, I put 3 different robin nano’s that died in about 90 days each in a twotrees sp-5, with no docs from mks to explain the diffs between versions. That is a rabbit hole I will not inflict on me or anyone else. The sp-5 worked well, when it worked but it rarely worked 6 weeks at a time. Thanks for any advice everybody.
Cheers, Gene

[mykepredko]

Just pick one already.

[jakep_82]

@gene1934

how do I determine from the docs, which docs match the board(s) I have. I’ll take this one out and read the silk screen on the bottom, but how do I match it with the correct docs for this board?

Have you looked at the Klipper GitHub which houses basic config files for all three of these boards? Match the silkscreen on the board to the file name, then follow the instructions at the top of the correct config to flash the MCU on your board. You’re making this much more difficult than necessary.

[gene1934]

I’ll have to get the latest klipper docs, what I have are about 2 years old. So I go looking and find a .cfg for an octopus pro v1.1. but is for an STM723, not a 446. Took inventory 2 ea octopus pro v1.01 with STM446 mcu’s. And one octopus 1.1 with an STM446. And 3 more installed in printers of unknown parentage.
Screw it.
3 O-pros 1.1’s here wednesday. At least they’ll be all alike (I hope) with the faster 723 mcu.

[gene1934]

[mykepredko] mykepredko https://klipper.discourse.group/u/mykepredko
February 5

We need to set some ground rules if I, or anybody, am EVER going to
be able to help you.

1. Clearly explain your system. This means list the printer type, main
   controller type, driver type (which is critical in this case), host
   type and host to main controller connection.

That will leave out potentially cogent info. Some of which may be
important. The next two printers, including this current ender5plus are
so heavily modified they do not resemble what came OOTB. Neither have
the original and totally puny motors, The ender5plus has a totally new X
axis including hotend, carbon fiber bar, linear rails top and bottom of
the bar, the whole maryann, including a permanently attached kusba. Y
drive also rebuilt with carbon fiber here and there. I intend it to be
capable of laying plastic at 200-500mm, not the 40mm it might do OOTB,
30mm if you didn’t want Y layer shifts.

Nearly All of that isn’t germain to the present problem. what possibly
might be is the step-dir-!enable config and totally external motor
drivers for 0-1. No problem if their is no interaction between sockets.

2. Include your |klippy.log|.
3. Concisely articulate your primary concern and list any observations
   that you think may be useful - nothing more. NOTE: these three
   points are what you should have done when you first started this
   thread in “General Discussion”.
4. When asked a question, answer it clearly. If you don’t understand
   what is being asked request an explanation. Don’t go off on a tangent.
5. When a suggestion is made do that and nothing else. Report your
   observations and don’t add anything. Always attach the latest

   klippy.log|; if it’s too big to attach then .zip it and attach the
   compressed file.

6. Wait for a response. Don’t make any changes until you are instructed
   to do so.

I’m doing this because the |klippy.log| you just sent clearly shows that
you just added a new |printer.cfg| file that you got from somewhere.

no new config, I’ve been hand editing that one

Here is the original |klippy.log| you attached, I’ve marked it with “6”
as that is the entry in this thread it was posted: klippy_Gene_6.log
https://klipper.discourse.group/uploads/short-url/iMugZE1mnjEXS50xPOtRQIVbDPJ.log (161.9 KB)

Here is the second |klippy.log| you attached, I’ve marked it with “16”
as that is the entry in this thread where it was posted:
klippy_Gene_16.log
https://klipper.discourse.group/uploads/short-url/xwPR920ns6ApAQ27OA4IYv7KLp0.log (24.9 KB)

Your |[mcu]| and '[printer]` statements from the first one:

[mcu] serial =
/dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32f429xx_3D004C001050325635383820-if00
[printer] kinematics = cartesian max_velocity = 600 max_accel = 10000
max_z_velocity = 5 max_z_accel = 100 |
As explained in my apology, the second came from a XMAX-3. They are
adjacent in the listing of paths from here to the machine we’re fighting
with, and my mouse needs more spring under the left button.

Your |[mcu]| and '[printer]` statements from the second one:

[mcu] serial = /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0
restart_method = command [printer] kinematics = cartesian max_velocity =
500 max_accel = 5000 max_z_velocity = 10 max_z_accel = 200 |

In the first |klippy.log|, your stepper_x pins are defined as:

[stepper_x] step_pin = PF13 dir_pin = PF12 enable_pin = PF14 |

In the second |klippy.log|, your stepper_x pins are defined as:

[stepper_x] step_pin = PC2 dir_pin = !PB9 enable_pin = !PC3 |

In the first |klippy.log|, you have |[tmc5160 stepper_…| statements
that we were discussing. In the second |klippy.log|, there are none.

In the second |klippy.log| there are a number of |[bed mesh,]|
statements that are not present in the first.

Yes, I intend to copy most of them, that machine has a bed mesh that
only scans enough of the bed to make the current part, saves time by the
hour,

I can go on but it’s just going to piss me off even more.

If you actually want help and this is not some perverse form of
entertainment for you, then I suggest that you start a new thread in
“General Discussion”

I will do that when the newer v1.1 cards have arrived and one of them
has been installed in the Ender5+. In the meantime take care & stay well.

and follow the guidelines I have set out above to

the letter (including providing the information and |klippy.log|
requested) and follow the spirit of the guidelines; that you will make
it easy for me or somebody else to help you.

My days of shooting at moving targets from a galloping horse with a
blindfold on are over.

---

Visit Topic
https://klipper.discourse.group/t/btt-spi-problems-from-wowelectronics-continued/13791/17 or reply to this email to respond.

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Cheers, Gene Heskett, CET.

[mykepredko]

What you’re doing here is exactly what I said I wouldn’t tolerate.

At the top of this thread, you said you have a “highly modified E5+” that you’re trying to get a “BTT octopus pro” to use as a controller. You were unable to get SPI working for TMC5160s and there were obvious errors in your approach.

That’s what I’m prepared to help you with. This is now reply 28 in this thread and the work to solve the original issue has only gone backwards.

I have gotten TMC drivers with both UART and SPI communications working on various flavours of Octopus, Manta M8Ps and Robin Nano V3s. It isn’t that hard and, despite what you think, it’s well documented by the various manufacturers.

Enough is enough. Either we work toward solving the original issue using the guidelines set out above or you wait for somebody else to offer to help you.

[jakep_82]

I’m personally bowing out. I can’t tell if it’s unwillingness or inability, but it doesn’t seem like progress is being made.

[Sineos]

I can’t figure you out, Gene.

I’m absolutely thrilled that you’re still dealing with these subjects at your age. You have my utmost respect for that, and I hope that I will still be just as interested in such topics in about 40 years’ time.

To be honest, I would let you repair my three-phase log splitter or CRT TV without hesitation, but I wouldn’t let you get within 10 feet of my 3D printers.

You should have realized by now that your manner and demeanor is driving people crazy who are trying to help you.

It’s not the fault of others or the information provided, it’s entirely your own fault that nothing comes of it:

• You do not follow the instructions given
• You are assuming something about every piece of information that has nowhere been stated or written
• You are second guessing everything just to make it fit in your world
• You are providing meaningless information, but you are ignoring every plea for even the simplest solid fact like what is stated on the silkscreen of your board

Why are you doing this? Do you think you know all this better? Do you think we are all too stupid to be trusted?