I’m printing many ringing towers to try different shapers and it seems that no matter the shaper I select, I always get gaps (too much smoothing) on the Y axis (in reference to Klipper documentation). I print with the recommended settings from klipper, starting at 1500 accel all the way up to 7000.
I tested ei, mzv, zv, 3hump_ei with peak frequency values and with IS recommended frequency values.
The y shaper with the MZV recommendation is very unlikely causing any gap.
Your x axis is really looking bad and the recommended shaper is the strongest one, known to be causing high smoothing.
Never seen two such strong maxima. Maybe your heavy modifications (whatever that means) did go into the wrong direction at least WRT the vibration.
I see two possible solutions:
Fix your printer mechanically
Ignore the peak at 125 Hz (high frequency vibration have less effect on ringing) and set your X shaper to MZV @40 Hz to get rid of the low frequency peak
I cannot comment on the changes but it seems they had a detrimental effect especially on the x axis when comparing to standard Ender 3. This might be due to:
Higher weight
Moved center of gravity
Loss in stiffness / loose parts like the fans
etc
First make sure not to alter the direction of this model. It needs to be printed in exactly the orientation as given
There are always some sort of gaps. The key indication how much they get wider with increasing acceleration. This test is intended to find the balance between max acceleration and smoothing
I think you ticked all the right boxes for the X axis. It does have a higher weight, and the way the fan ducts are mounted on the toolhead is not the best (using the Hero Gen Me 6).
Used the Hero Gen design a while back (guess it was Gen 3 or 4) and I did not like it:
Too heavy / too many compromises due to the flexibility / modularity
For a regular “consumer printer” two 5015 are an overkill IMO. Need for airflow is directly proportional to printing speed / acceleration. Thus such high airflow absolutely makes sense for high-speed / high acceleration printers like the Vorons etc.
I placed 4 pieces of foam and then a concrete slab on them and the printer sits on it.
I tightened all the screws I could find. I know it’s not enough.
Yes, better. You managed to get down the magnitude of the second peak. Note that the script still recommends to use 3HUMP_EI. I would ignore this and use the recommended settings for MZV
Would not make too much sense since this integrates the interface to the linear rail. But check thingiverse / printables, there are some projects to adapt the Voron design to the Ender:
Thank you. To be honest I am not sure if Creality has made any dimensional changes to the X carriage for the various printer revisions. You would have to check for any dimensional differences. But you do have to keep in mind that my purpose was not to design a universal toolhead but instead design something very specific for my needs, using Orbiter 2 and the Dragon hot end. I listed my design objectives on the Thingiverse page. I also had no intentions to create this design for others to use but I am happy to share it in case anyone else does find it useful. This was an exercise for me in exploring Fusion 360 and creating a more complex design that required lots of thought about the function and the assembly.
I don’t keep the accelerometer permanently attached and I did not design a specific mount for it. I use layer of double sided tape underneath the ADXL board, an insulating layer of electrical tape on top of the board to protect the components, and then another layer of aluminum duct tape on top of the electrical tape. This is very easy to remove and works extremely well. It also allows me to easily install the accelerometer in different places on the print head as well as the bed.
If you are serious about trying a different print head, there are many different options available for the Ender as it is one of the most popular printers. I am very partial to the Orbiter 2, and Robert (the designer) has a collection of different print heads on the Orbiter web site: Orbiter v2.0 – ORBITER PROJECTS, including one that looks really nice that he designed himself for LDO to produce (it’s still in “beta”): Apogee Ender 3 V2 Tool-head – ORBITER PROJECTS
I personally try to keep away from any of the universal “one fits all” designs because they typically suffer from compromises necessary to make them universal.
Yeah, I’ve seen Robert’s design but I don’t like it as it uses smaller fans all around.
I want to keep using my 5015 and 4010 fans.
I completely agree about avoiding universal designs. Since the Ender 3 is quite popular, I have to find people who use it with the Orbiter 2 and Phaetus Dragon hotend so I can switch from HMG6.
I really like your design. It’s simple and seems light on the X gantry. I just don’t know how easy it is to see the 1st layer from the fan ducts.
I’d probably thicken the part where CrOD logo is, just enough to do two screw holes that won’t go all the way into the duct. Then use brass inserts and that will be a nice mounting point for the ADXL.
This awkward design is to illustrate my intention
that’s about where my 3D design skills end
Thank you Unfortunately first layer visibility is one of the design trades that I had to make and it is not very good…
On my CR-10S Pro the overall design of the printer is so limiting in terms of maximum accelerations that the actual location of the ADXL for resonance measurements is not that critical. Having said that, I would recommend not to attach anything to the duct as it is kept in place by friction only and with a heavier weight of the ADXL it may pick up some false resonances. In my case I simply attached the accelerometer temporarily to the back of the Orbiter stepper motor and that worked really well.
Yes, indeed. In my case I researched and then sourced the hardware that I wanted to use as opposed to using the many bits and pieces that I have on-hand. In particular I tested four different 3010 fans before I picked one that worked well. The others would surge (stall the blades) due to the back pressure of the duct and the Dragon heat sink and effectively produce no flow. Despite being well rated in terms of flow vs. delta P.
I hope you find a solution that works for you. Or, as I did, roll-up your sleeves and bake one yourself from scratch. It’s a great experience.
