Heater extruder not heating at expected rate once more

Printer Model: Sovol SV06+
MCU / Printerboard: UART/ SKR Mini E3 V3
cklippy.log (346.3 KB)

Describe your issue:

Brand new printer, I did a couple prints after calibration and everything was going great, and then I got this error.

I waited until the temperature went down and then I did it again, 200C, it got to around 185C, dropped PWM to slow down temperature, and it just stopped working entirely even thought PWM went back to 100%

It had no movements. I’ve repeated this about 10 times, regardless of temperature asked, the moment it approaches the requested temperature and drops PWM a little bit, it just stops working entirely.

Definitely not a klipper issue, but what is it? Wiring issue? Bad heater cartridge?


I had a similar issue. It would heat up, and then randomly stop. My solution was replacing the wires from the heater cartridge to the board did it for me. See if there are certain ways that the wire bends where it does not heat up. And so on and so forth. I had a slice engineering hotend that had very stiff wires and it literally bent them so much in my cable chains that they broke somewhere. I would check you wiring/heater cartridge first.

It also might be possible that klipper is not setup correctly as there may be an incorrectly setup heater cartridge.

Or there may just be a bad heater cartridge. Try replacing that first.

Happy Printing,

I agree with @Blake100. Such errors with this sharp drop in temperature are almost always a defect heating cartridge. Either wiring or cartridge itself.
Often such effects only manifest at certain temperatures or when moving.

I will be the third wheel here.
Recently i had heating issues after installing some cable chain…it so happens that while cutting some cable tie i barely cut into the heater cable but enough to sever enough wire that the mcu picked it up and would not heat proper.
So i would check your cables and connections just as a safety precaution.

Alright, thanks, I’ll try to check wiring. The one annoying thing is that all the wires to the hot end are in a ribbon, hard to just replace one wire.


That might actually be the issue though, since thing stands straight by the box clamp and it gets loose often. In one of my print, it got loose and was dragged on the hot bed for a couple hours. The ribbon it self is rated 105C so it shouldn’t have gotten heat damage, but it did get tussled quite a bit.

Any suggestion on how to test/replace that?


If I believe correctly, you want to check the continuity of the ribbon cable. I would just disconnect it and then use a multimeter to connect two points and twist the cable. If you find a break in continuity than you will have found it.

Side note:
Often these sort of systems are designed weird. For example, on my CR-10 V2 it had a board that everything comes from the toolhead plugs into. You can then plug the cable that comes from the control box into a plug on this breakout board. The thought being that it would make it easier for newbeies to get their printer running instead of making them open up their printer and plug everything in. Anyway, I hated it and decided to get rid of it. I learned the hard way that sometimes designers of a product are stupid and do stupid things. To make it so there were less wires coming from the breakout board back to the mainboard, they COMBINED several grounds. I fried my board because I mistook some wires to be some other wires. If you decide to get a new heater cartridge, be careful. I would not get a different on than the one you already have. If you put in say a 24 volt heater cartridge instead of a 12v than you may fry the mainboard if they have done something stupid like combining grounds. Same goes with fans in the future. I fried another mainboard in the past with the blasted breakout board because it combined the fan positives together, so when I hooked up a better 24 volt fan it fried it. Even though on the mainboard it looked like there was a separate fan slot for each, when In reality it was just being controlled by the ground wire. This made it so when I changed my fan jumper to be 24 volts it set 24 volts through the line and fried my og 12v fan. So I then had to replace both fans.

Long story short, be careful with what you do and double check everything.

Happy Printing,

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Excellent advices @Blake100

This might lead to misleading results as such errors often show only

  • during movements
  • under thermal stress

So these tests could give the false impression that everything is fine and lead away from the true root cause

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