No offense taken, I wouldn’t consider that blunt at all. If the endstops were the last of the issues, that would be a miracle.
I as well had my concerns for the additional limit switches (x1 and z1) because to me when initially learning what was going on I assumed they were pointless, but from what I was told and concluded to myself, the only reason that they are there is to keep the axes squared up so if it does get smashed it wont be tilting more in one direction.
I am gaining a pretty decent understanding of what is going on through this forum as well as from the amount of hours I’ve spent troubleshooting this, but I still plan to delve deeper into how Klipper operates. I have brought these issues to the right peoples attention, and we are going to be discussing what they necessarily want this system to do, so I think I may hold off on removing the LEDs until they figure out what they want out of this test bench.
I very much appreciate all the help you have been! I had my suspicions about it being hardware related because software issues would be more consistent across the 3 tested boards, but I am still very fresh to the world of 3D printing so I figured this might be my best outlet. I will post again if the time comes where I remove the LEDs, but if not, I’m sure I will be back seeking help with something else!
Well sir, I have removed the LEDs with an X-ACTO knife and as of 8:07 AM, all of the endstops are functioning as they should be. Thank you for being patient and suggesting this! I am going to be monitoring and testing them periodically throughout today, but this is a huge step and relief.
I am back already! The board died around 1 pm. It cannot communicate at all now with Mainsail and its communication port is not recognized by our pi. Tested one of the other boards I did not take LEDs off of and was able to pull up the communication port and get it talking with mainsail again.
After seeing what the plan is for this printer and whether or not they’re not going to scrap it because this is not its only issue, I am going to be researching the BTT Octopus based off recommendation from the person who originally commissioned this (any other recommendations are welcome).
This solution for the SKR PRO did indeed work, but I am unsure what happened after those 4-5 hours.
I’m sorry to hear about that. Did you check the fuse on the board and that power is getting to the board?
After that, could you reflashing the failing board with a new Klipper image?
That is strange - I’m going to lean toward it being something basic like a power issue.
As for a replacement board, I’d recommend a Manta M8P; put a Raspberry Pi CM4 on it and you don’t have to worry about the connection between the Raspberry Pi and the Raspberry Pi’s power supply.
Let us know if you see anything like a power or flash image problem.
I checked the fuses and tried reflashing with a new klipper image. The board is refusing to accept it however. I will be looking more into this tomorrow and Monday. I appreciate the suggestion too. He also suggested the Manta, but we’d have to get a new Pi as well, so that’s something I’ll have to research as well.
Just to update you, the printer idea is going to be scrapped due to its many issues. In the future it is going to be used purely to test material flow.
Another update for the fried MCU on the board. I believe this had happened due to a wire not being secure and slipping out. To me, this is the only reason it could have fried after working perfectly fine for hours, but since we are no longer going to try to print, I may never know for sure since I won’t be testing another board.
Again, thank you for all the help and information. I have enjoyed learning new things!