For reference I bought SEN3D’s ender IDEX kit diy, i.e. print your own parts. but unfortunately the right tool head can’t hit the endstop due to how I assembled the belt tensioner for X2, which is inside the toolhead. Same issue on X1 but instead the probe mount for my chosen chimera printhead prevents it from hitting the switch.
So basically both X axis I’m planning on going sensorless, but I don’t know how well it’ll work in terms of getting the offsets right
I think a mechanical switch is more accurate here.
Had sensorless configured in first instance as well but then went back to mechanical endstops.
You could remove the metal lever of a micro switch and directly trigger the button.
This will remove thermal influence of that metal part.
Anything is possible if you believe in yourself and never give up.
But honestly, Endstops are just switches. You can make pretty much anything work.
Sensorless homing DOES work but it takes a decent amount of tuning and it’s never going to be as accurate as a mechanical switch.
The variety of microswitches is huge.
Here’s a seller with 6 different types.
https://www.amazon.com/JANDECCN-Switch-Straight-Action-V-153-1C25/dp/B09SWCJ8FF
Or you could always use a hall effect endstop, that’s what I use. It has it’s pros and cons. Requires some additional tweaking to set the sensitivity and how far away you want it to trigger.
700 different limit switches/snap action switches in stock:
https://www.mouser.com/c/?q=microswitch&instock=y
If you want to be truly crazy, I implemented an “endstop” on a grounded screw and a wire that I soldered to a piece of copper foil tape when I was testing something. Probably not the best in terms of longevity, but it worked.