Stringing & Klipper

Basic Information:

Printer Model: Ender 3 pro
MCU / Printerboard: BTT E3 V2
Host / SBC
klippy.log klippy.log (1.5 MB)

Describe your issue:

Ever since I’ve moved from Marlin to Klipper and then Cura to Orca I’ve had the worst stringing! If I had any hair left I’d of pulled it out by now. I’ve got a 5015 fan running at 100% to cool the hot end down so I think that rules out a cooling issue but I could be wrong! I also tried a freshly sealed real of PLA that still had bad stringing issues.

Is there anything I can put in printer.cfg to help with this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!


There is only very little in the firmware that would influence this. The main influencing factors are slicer settings:

Klipper:

Slicer:

  • Proper temperature, the hotter, the more stringing
  • Retract length (tune PA first)
  • Retract speed (tune PA first)
  • Wipe settings, e.g. “wipe on retract” or similar
2 Likes

I second that. Usually boils down to Slicer settings.

The only thing on firmware I see that can influence this is the extruder rotation distance (and perhaps improper current for the motor). Make sure it’s properly configured according to the specs of your extruder.

A way to test this is to measure 100 mm of filament from the intake and mark it. Then heat it up and call it to extruder the same 100mm. Check if the mark in the filament reaches the point you measured it from.

Thank you for the help, i’ve had a look at my pressure advance and i think its pretty good? This is a calibration square and the edges look pretty crisp?

I’ve added 2mm of wipe but haven’t noticed anything notable.

For retraction speed do you have a bench mark? I’m currently at 30mm/s


Thank you for the advice! I was extruding 101mm rather than 100mm so I’ve updated that but again I haven’t noticed any improvements.

Im running out of things to thing to mess about with to help improve!

The benchmark are your tests. I would get stringing with PLA at this speed. I currently rectract 2mm at 60mm/s for PLA (at 240 C), this temperature is hotter than usual because I have a volcano hardened steel nozzle at the moment and printing at higher than 10 mm³/s.

So check your temperature, flow rate, and experiment with retraction speeds and lengths.

Edit: Quick question. Do you have a bowden extruder? If so, you will need much longer retractions (at least 6mm I would say) and 80mm/s of speed, I would say.

This is not a lot of difference so shouldn’t affect it much. I’d say is more likely a measurement error rather than incorrect rotation config. If rotation distance it was before was speced by your extruder manufacturer, I wouldn’t change it with this difference.

Its a direct drive creality sprite pro. Ive tried retraction at 2mm and 4mm, the benchys are attached and i cant notice a difference. Ive got retraction speed at 80mm/s now as well.

Should i have z hop on?

This is odd. It’s way too much stringing for a direct drive. I almost never use Z-hop most of the time just makes quality worse and prints slower.

What temperature are you printing? Did you change anything besides the firmware?

A few more things you can try:

  • Firmware retraction: You can then play with retraction parameters on the fly as the print is going.
  • Temperature sensor: Make sure you have configured the correct sensor and ran PID calibration.
  • Nozzle: Check Slicer printer setting if the nozzle size is correct
  • Extruder: Check if the Slicer sets acceleration for extruder movements. Try a different Slicer or a default print profile (both for filament and print settings)

205 for temp, i was at 220 but turned it down and made no difference again.

PID calibration of the temperature sensor is new to me, what does that involve?

The rest i’ll have a look at tonight. Im using a 0.6mm nozzel and that is what i have selected on orca and within printer.cfg.

Thanks for you’re help!

https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_checks.html#calibrate-pid-settings

Just correcting myself. PID calibrates the heater not the sensor. But requires reading the sensor to do it

Try Ellis’ print tuning guide… Tuning | Ellis’ Print Tuning Guide