Basic Information:
Printer Model: CR-10 (original)
MCU / Printerboard: Creality 4.2.2 H8
Raspberry Pi
klippy.log klippy.zip (1.3 MB)
Stringing:
I know I have a hotend issue, but I was able to get decent prints while I had Marlin. However, I’ve been fixing things in order or as I find them, and it started with adding a dual Z-axis due to a lot of droop on the right side, and then upgrading the control board since I had an extra. After installing everything and working through the initial configuration, I’m stuck on a stringing issue.
While investigating, I found that the hotend shroud doesn’t line up correctly with the parts duct because the previous owner had printed their own version, which points to the nozzle more than the tip of it.
I also found when I was calibrating e-steps that there was a “puck” of filament at the bottom of the hotend. So I’m sure the boden tube is not all the way seated or some other issue. They also removed the supporting bolts that typically come up from the heating block into the vented heat sink.
What I would like to do is eliminate the stringing enough to print an alternative shroud, such as a Hero Me 7, etc.
When it was running Marlin, which was a custom-loaded firmware or at least had a bootloader from TH3D, I was able to print without stringing.
I’m looking for help on the settings I could try to adjust to eliminate or reduce stringing enough to allow me to print the Hero Me 7.
Hello @mrhobbeys !
What material are you talking about?
PLA and PLA plus are the only things I’ve tried so far.
I’ve slowed down the print in Orca’s settings, as I’m new to working with Orca and Klipper. Which, as I’m looking at these settings I have right now, I realized the non-stringing parts came from my Cura profile, which is on a different PC.
But currently I have in Orca:
Most improved settings so far with the PLA+:
Print Temp: 220 (temp tower doesn’t show much improvement, I’ll get some pictures uploaded shortly)
Bed Temp: 60
0.98 Flow Ratio
Pressure advance is off
Volumetric Speed Limit: 12 mm^3/s (seems high to me, but I don’t know)
I’ve also slowed down the print in the slicer settings, as I’m new to working with Orca and Klipper. Which, as I’m looking at these settings I have right now, I realized the non-stringing parts came from my Cura profile, which is on a different PC.
Speed:
Outer wall: 25 mm/s
Inner wall: 35 mm/s
Small Perimeters 50%
Sparse infill: 50 mm/s
Internal solid infill: 50 mm/s
Top Surface: 25 mm/s
Gap Infill: 30 mm/s
Support: 80 mm/s
Still in Orca Acceleration:
Normal Printing: 500 mm/s
Outer wall: 500 mm/s
Inner wall: 10000 mm/s
Bridge: 50%
Sparse Infill: 100%
Internal solid infill: 100%
First Layer: 300 mm/s (first layer always looks good)
Top surface: 500 mm/s
Travel: 10000 mms
In Klipper I know it is in the logs, but to save someone from having to download and unzip the file here are the relevant settings:
[printer]
kinematics: cartesian
max_velocity: 100
max_accel: 500
max_accel_to_decel: 500
max_z_velocity: 5
max_z_accel: 50
I noticed that you did not mention retraction.
You may see here: Retraction | Ellis’ Print Tuning Guide
I’ve been working to dial this in, but still having issues. This year has been more humid than in years past, so I’m wondering if my filament isn’t dry. I’m now considering dryer and dry box options, including making one out of a plastic cereal box I already have on hand.
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This a cookie cutter I can see a potential layer shift on the bottom layer and then maybe under extrusion on the inside. I’m actually not sure.
The printer was highly modified when I got it, and I’ve always had at least some minor success with it, but I haven’t been able to get things right since I’ve added Klipper. I think it’s because the bed is so heavy. I’ve always had to slow the prints down very slow before Klipper using Cura and Marlin I was somewhere around 30 mm/s, at one point I went down to 20 mm/s.
I switched to Orca slicer a few months and maybe 5 to 7 prints before switching to Klipper. I never got Cura fully dialed in but I was getting prints that worked.
So far with Klipper I’ve tried a lot of speeds and working through another issue. Basically, the hot end shroud broke and I took one off of an Ender 3 to this Ender 3 V2. I’m now trying to print Hero Me as a replacement and get back up and running.
I’m currently printing at 35 mm/s and 98% Extrusion factor set by the GUI.
I’ve had a layer shift since this photo but I don’t think it was due to speed. I believe it’s due to filament creating a blob on the nozzle then getting pushed around. I had set the esteps and flow rate but I’m going to see if this will finish and be usable and then wait for the dryer box to do its thing.
I made a video maybe it will show better.
