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Describe your issue:
… After taking a break from 3D printing for a while, I’m now coming back to try and finish configuring my modified X5SA. the issue im trying to fix right now is - my hight-map doesn’t seem to jive with my z-tilt. What i mean by that is I use Z-tilt to make sure that the front two corners are lined up (running two Z stepper motors, and i used screws_tilt_calculate to try and get the rear of the ed lined up with the front (manually adjustable). After this, I take a height-map, and none of the corners seem to be lined up with each other (see attached picture). Of course this makes it nearly impossible to get a good first layer on anything but a small print - I get good squish on some parts, and others are too far from the bed, or too close. My Z-steppers don’t seem to be moving during the layers at all.
Any direction on solving for this issue are appreciated.
Z_TILT_ADJUST will adjust the left and right z-stepper around the center-point of the red line.
The X are roughly what you need for the z_positions and points in the settings. This already seems way off in your case.
Any deviation from a flat bed regarding the bed-screws will translate into Z_TILT_ADJUST on a 1:1 basis.
Then doing another round of adjustments with SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE will again adjust something somewhere.
You have defined 3 screws with one on the back center. Each adjustment of any screw will again tilt the bed. If you screw down (make tighter) the front left screw, then the back right edge will raise.
The result you see in the mesh.
In addition, your probe is defined with 0.0 offsets, which can only be true if the nozzle’s tip is your probe or the probe moves exactly to this location. This seems not true, at least not for a stock Tronxy.
thanks for your response. Should i change the config so the tilt adjust takes measurements from the center-sides of the bed, as in the diagram? I had them at the front corners because that’s where the non-adjustable bed knobs are. I figure tilt would be more accurate (and faster) in making the adjustments than I would, leaving the rear center to be the only manually adjustable point. Previously, I had the rear corners adjustable, would that work out better?
currently, I use tilt to make the front two corners even, then i make the bed mesh. I only use screws_tilt_calculate when I need to verify things are as close to level as i can get them.
After using tilt, shouldn’t the front of the bed show flat in the height-map at least?
Your idea behind this is pretty clever. I have never tried such a setup and I have doubts that it will work. One of my biggest concerns is that you put your Z-design (bed and frame) under tension. You do not level it, which would be needed, but you force it into a position that should compensate for the bed-screws’ misalignment.
Generally, trying to “cheat away” mechanical deficits with software is rarely a good idea.
You have proper and exact X and Y offsets for your probe.
Correct screw positions for (nozzle coordinates at the location where the probe’s tip is ideally above the screw’s center) for “P1” and “P2”.
Then:
The red “X” represents your z_positions (center of the lead-screw).
“P1” and “P2” represent your points and match the screw’s center position.
Replace the screws/springs on the front with standoffs of exactly the same height (something like this). The height of the standoffs should probably be around the same as with your springs under good tension. (green boxes)
Make sure to shim this to equal height and parallelism towards the Z-frame (cyan lines).
All coordinates should be as exact as possible
Now you should have:
A stable reference line on the front of the bed.
Equal distances towards the frame, i.e., no tensioning up of the entire Z-frame.
The back screw to adjust the bed’s plane.
Theoretically, a SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE should give you no compensation need for “P1” and “P2”.
I’m still not sure if this is going to work out, but it might be worth a try.
I already have nylon standoffs between the two front points. I removed the springs, and replaced them with nylon standoffs of the same size. Its those points, where the probe takes its measurements when it performs the tilt. I then use all three points (two front corners, and one rear-center) with screws calculate to bring everything as equal as possible. Oh, I probably should have mentioned it before, but I’m using a microprobe, and the correct glass tronxy bed. Ironically, the last time I had good bed level was before I installed the microprobe - I had the blue tronxy one before, but that didn’t detect the glass bed, and I couldn’t figure out how to wire it to the new mainboard. I used to use a magnetic bed before the glass one, but that got trashed a while ago. you think the microprobe is a source of my headache?
If needed; ill post a picture of the setup when I get home.
I’m running this probe myself and very much like it.
If you have it installed correctly according to the relevant information in the BTT documentation and achieve proper probe accuracy, then you should be fine.
For the rest, I have put up my recommendations in the post above. If this and your approach do not work properly, then we might be back to
Hmmm, just noticed a small difference between your picture and mine, in regards to the bed frame. Mine is upside-down compared to your picture. In your picture, the frame sides are above the front and back rails; where as mine are below. That shouldn’t really matter - correct?
Not sure whether I understand your difference.
Generally, it should not matter as long as the logic aligns correctly with the settings, coordinates, offsets, etc.
