There is no retractions on this model, made specifically to be printed at 4 lines.
The waves on x axis was much less prominent, on the y axis they are gone almost completely.
Such a model is nice to be printed with changing speeds to see the effects better.
Maybe you can define a speed increase of 10 mm/s every 5 mm or so, scale it a bit higher and let it run from 60 to 150 mm/s on outer walls.
Might adapt hotend temperature to the higher speed though.
Then you might see such a result:
There you can see the speeds to avoid if possible.
Otherwise you might check belt tension on the not so clean axis.
I just learned about changing vref, I agree that makes more sense.
I’ll try and figure that out in the next few days.
Does it matter to us what the driver is if we arn’t controlling it in SPI mode? (i have no idea, im new to drivers). I can always pull a heatsink off if it helps, I think I have extra thermal glue.
I’m certainly having better luck printing since switching to the physical endstop (and more frequently z-homing, before my macros were setup not to rehome if I already had).
Thought was if I change the stepper motor or the rod (to get higher precision) I could then also try using ENDSTOP_PHASE_CALIBRATE
Dunno, I’m not an expert about stepper drivers as well 
But looking at the printer.cfg for the Neo2 which are available, there doesn’t seem to be a specific type of driver set anyway.
Sure, that would be great if you would do that (then please also take a picture) - but I don’t want you to encourage to do it, not that you have issues getting that heatsink back on again then or so… 
Pls reach out in private then for the pic (and maybe for further discussions as well as this thread is closed), feel free to do so via email.
When changing the Vref (I marked the potis at the mobo picture) and measuring the voltage , be super careful to not create a shortcut! That’ll blow the driver then and as those are soldered onto the mobo, you can’t just easily swap in a new one then…
sure, whats the best way to stay in touch?
I swapped which motor the y/z drivers were running and am doing some tests.
Any idea what the blue unused connector is for?
That would be email - you can find my address in the footer of each page of the infosite (3dneo at …).
You mean the blue one in the lower right corner at that pic? That’s the one I was referring to / talking about here: Getting orange pi 3 lts + klipper working with anycubic kobra 2 neo - #206 by Catnippr
Где взять актуальный firmware.bin Клипер под Кобру Нео 2?
О, земляк)
По правилам форума можно писать сообщения только на английском языке, так что впредь используй переводчик.
У меня у самого стоит не самая свежая версия клиппера т.к. для прошивки нужно использовать windows 10 а я уже 2 года использую только linux и для меня прошивка достаточно проблематична. Позже попытаюсь выпустить более новую версию прошивки, либо можешь спросить у других.
According to the rules of the forum, you can only write messages in English, so from now on use a translator.
I myself do not have the latest version of the klipper because I need to use windows 10 for firmware flashing, and I have been using linux only for 2 years now and the firmware flashing is quite problematic for me. I’ll try to release a newer firmware binaries later, or you can ask others.
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Enter the specification needed for compilation. So the type of processor, port, etc. I will compile the new bin file.
I am just putting a new server on the machine only for the Klipper at Debian 11.
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Please accept the application for friends in the Discord, my nickname is The Loopa
For several days he has been trying to compile the Klipper and I can’t.
Can anyone give me the correct config to the Klipper compilation?
I installed the Klipper on Debian 11 with the help of KIAUH.
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Hello All,
I got to work the “magic level button” on the end of the bed.
After calibration the hardware button It is give me a correct absolute 0 position on Z axes with PA0 pin.
Then the inductive sensor can be used for bed leveling. No more manual calibration required.
With some macro writing you can clean the nozzle before Z axes leveling and before start the printing.
If you have questions just please let me know.
#z stepper
[stepper_z]
step_pin: PB0
dir_pin: !PB1
enable_pin: !PA15
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 8
#endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop
position_endstop: 0
endstop_pin: PA0
position_min: -3
position_max: 200
homing_speed: 15
second_homing_speed: 0.5
[safe_z_home]
home_xy_position: 57, 237 ;coordinates must be changed to center of your button
speed: 100
z_hop: 3
z_hop_speed: 15
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