My issues probably not kamp, rather dumb mistakes

Basic Information:

Printer Model: enter 6 and 3
MCU / Printerboard: mini e3v3 and manta m4p
Host / SBC laptop and cb1
config-20240514-180906.zip (3.1 KB)

klippy.log

Ok so I made another post about issues with kamp etc…so after tons of suggestions etc I have started to notice different things that actually maybe causing said issues, and I would like to get some extra input or if I need to be told I’m smoking crac then so be it lol.

So on two machines I have noticed that on the web interface if you open the height map, looking the graph it seems the mesh is always below the z offset line in the graph please reference attached photo if I have uploaded it correct, so I’m curious on these machines have a messed up my cr touch in the config etc?
Now I have run probe accuracy commands and it does seem there is no issue on that part with a standard deviation of 0.001346 at room temp and 0.001581, I am assuming after reading documention that is very acceptable.

Now the other things were mechanical problems thanks to Theo I re checked things and found I had some bolts come loose over time ( yes shame on me for not checking when I do my so called maintenance lol).

It’s in reference to where you set your z homing at, which is typically the center of the bed.

Does your build plate have a slight raised portion where you home at? This happens sometimes after the nozzle touches that point repeatedly.

Thank you nick for your response and re reading I guess I did leave out info, I do agree with your statement, however these are new beds that are double sided, with saying that it does change from print to print and if I have done a adjustment while running. Most times I have a completely different bed mesh print to print having to adjust each time just to achieve a decent print.
Now my first thoughts have always been we mechanically I have something bad ( bed screws, in even z gantry etc), so I go and start with that and find nothing has changed, my gantry is level, I did find a loose complete bolts that I thought would be the fix but unfortunately not. So again I’m left pulling my hair out lol

It’s possible you’re tightening your bed too hard at the corners and causing it to bow up in the center.

Honestly, it’s not a big deal if the mesh is under the shown plane. Your range looks about what mine is honestly and I print just fine.

.1mm is half a layer height for a .2mm layer height, or 1/4th a layer for .4mm, which is honestly fine. Bed mesh will compensate for that.

Yes I do agree and under normal circumstances that works for me 100%.
Like I have been trying to explain that isn’t the case, my first layer does not stick regardless of the change offset, and that’s the reason I have mentioned this mesh, normally I would just look at my variance numbers and change if horribly out of whack.
But since my attempt with putting kamp in and the recent updates has my prints gone to crap…. And that’s why I’m trying to visit every possibility to track down what has caused this.
To give you some reference, tonight with the one machine I swapped the firmware back to marlin, didn’t touch the machine other then to do the calibration of the z and bed mesh, and bang!!! Printed like a charm. So this has me thinking well what has been changed firmware wise by myself or did I miss something when I did the updates that the machine is about as confused as I am at this point?
I do not want to revert back to marlin as I prefer klipper, but with the experience I have with klipper I am at a stand still I don’t know where to look or even what to look for at this point lol

Oh my apologies I did forget to mention, you siluggested the bed screws being over tight causing a warp, I did take that into consideration and replaced the heating plate a week ago roughly when this all started

Have you tried printing without the adaptive bed meshing to see if that helps?

By the nature of adaptive bed meshing it only measures a small area and adjusts based on that. Your bed can be “locally” flat but “globally” skewed a bit and the adaptive mesh won’t see it (As far as I understand adaptive bed meshing logic anyways).

If you go back to regular bed mesh and it prints just fine, there really isn’t a NEED per say for the adaptive bed meshing.

I have tried yes, I may have figure it out stay tuned lol. I appreciate the help your trying to give me and I do agree about adaptive mesh, I do like that it speeds up the print kind of with the probing being short but hey I definitely don’t live in a perfect world haha