New To 3D Printing - Bought Used - Pulling Hair Out

General Discussion
1

Basic Information:

Printer Model: Creality CR10 5S
MCU / Printerboard: BTT Manta M8P v1.1
Host / SBC: BTT CB1
klippy.log
klippy(9).log (26.2 KB)

Describe your issue:

I wanted to get into 3D printing. And for the types of builds I was looking at, a big one made sense. So I found a local CR10 5S, where the changes to it were “Now runs Klipper”, that was it.

So I got it, brought it home and it turns out the printer is pretty far from stock. It is now headerless with Klipper (as per the listing), but also has a BTT Manta M8P 1.1 board with 8x TMC2209 drivers, CB1 host, Voron Stealthburner with Phaetus Dragon Hotend and a SB2099 CAN RP2040 controller with Voron Tap. All words that I did not know 2 months ago.

On top of all that, it was not working and mostly disconnected.

So, with only having rudimentary experience with RPi, no experience with 3d printers, and a 3D printer that would seem to be fairly advanced, I have had a steep learning curve. Over the last 2 months I have been trying to get it working., but keep hitting road block after roadblock. So many paths lead down to dead ends. I feel like I have thrown myself in the deep end a bit here.

X is a virtual endstop and y is a physical endstop.

My successes so far (I think)

  • Cabling back in the correct place
  • Manta board, CB1 and SB2099 firmwares all installed.
  • CAN bus seems to be communicating.
  • Klipper istalled and updated.
  • Webcam displays
  • Replaced hotend temp sensor.
  • x, y, z and probe endstops are OPEN.
  • x now homes properly and is controlable.

So my next issue is that y and z when homed, shutdown the printer with:

Unable to read tmc uart ‘stepper_y’ register IFCNT
Unable to read tmc uart ‘stepper_z2’ register IFCNT

Pretty sure the UART pins are prepared properly, but I’ve been wrong many times on this so far.

Oh, and also when testing the bed and extruder temps by manually setting them to 50 degrees C. They throw up errors and shutdown the printer too.

That is on top of the tap seemingly being quite stiff to move. When I got it there was only 3 ball bearings total left in the guide rails, so I added more, not sure if I have added too many now. Also another issue for another day.

If anyone is able to offer some advice on what I can do next, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

2

The most likely cause of the “unable to read tmc uart” errors is that you don’t have the driver jumpers set correctly.

I looked at your klippy.log and it look like you’ve specified the correct pins for the UART connections. The best bet is that the jumpers on the board are set incorrectly.

Why do you have a stealthchop_threshold1 of 999999 on X & Y but not on anything else? I suggest that for the other drivers set the same stealthchop_thresholdvalue and remove theinterpolate` parameters.

I can’t comment on the temperature errors - you’ll have to provide more information. I would recommend not using watermark for the bed.

As for your guide rails, I suspect that you’ll have to buy new ones. If the ball bearings have been gone a while, chances are the rails will be dinged up.

3

Thanks for the response. I’ll have a look at the jumpers and the stealthchop settings..

If it still seems to have an issue, would it be worth moving y to another motor section?

The reason for some settings not being correct on other things, I was just working down printer.cfg issues one at a time. I was working on just trying to get x to move. Then moving on to getting y to work, etc.

Some of the other settings I just haven’t got to in any meaningful way yet, it took me days just to get the CB1, M8P and SB2099 to talk to each other, rebuilding firmware multiple times trying to get the right versions and settings. Another couple of weeks to just get klippy not to show errors on startup. More days trying to problem solve the hotend temp sensor. Another month to get x to move, etc, etc. It has been a slow, constantly tripping over my feet type of progress. But I have learned a lot and am enjoying going through it all, IF I overcome the constant roadblocks I seem to hit.

Not being stock, and not having the printer from stock, has meant there isn’t much in the way of linking information. No step by step to get everything I have to work together, because nothing is original (also keeping in mind I didn’t know what hardware I had, nearly everything seems to have been changed, but I was given no manuals or clues beyond “CR10 5S running Klipper”). Being a complete noob also means I am having to learn the basics, the terminology, the pitfalls and obstructions for beginners working with a 3d printer. While also having to learn a lot more seemingly advanced stuff. Thankfully I have a bit of background in electrics and electronics and I enjoy a challenge, but to say it is not a frustrating experience at times is an understatement. :laughing:

Again, thanks fo rthe help. I will check the jumpers and verify that the harfware is at least set up correctly.

4

Key to such initiatives are:

  • A systematic approach
  • Simplification

What does this mean?

  • Klipper neither knows nor cares what brand or model a printer is.
  • All Klipper cares about is what is configured in the printer.cfg. This must match what is physically present.
  • The central configuration item is always the printer board, in your case the BTT Manta M8P v1.1.

Proposed approach:

Do not:

  • Add any macros or other fancy stuff.
  • Connect or configure hardware besides the above absolute minimum.

If you follow this, you will have the printer up and running in less than one day.

5 Likes
5

Thanks for that, I usually try and go methodically. I did start working from the default, but as I tried new things, it has slowly warped.

So I have made progress.

x, y and z now work. At least I think they do.

  • I removed the physical stop from y, going to virtual.
  • I switched the TMC driver on y with one of the other motors, checking the jumpers were ok.
  • I replaced the wiring and pcb for the tap.
  • Checked the printer.cfg for y and z, hopefully making sure it was correct.
  • I also read that the tap needs ^ on the pin, so I did that too.

I had a moment of panic when I thought the printer was missing the back plate for the tap sensor. The sensor says optotap on it (so the optical version?), and looking online I got the impression that the rail was meant to be mounted on a back plate that has a little tab sticking up to break the optical sensor sight. Mine doesn’t seem to have anything like that, so I thought it was missing. But the sensor seems to work when the toolhead is lifted. So I really don’t understand that part. But it seems to work. :person_shrugging:

Each homes ok on their own, but I added:

[safe_z_home]
home_xy_position: 250,250
speed: 50
z_hop: 10

to change the z homing to take the reading from the middle, because when it tries to take it from position:0, the z sensor doesn’t register as being tripped and the motor just keeps trying to push the z axis down.

My x gantry is not level though, so I presume it may be something to do with that?

I havent found a way to level the gantry yet. Most search results seem to be about the quad post style.

And both the bed and the extruder heating does not seem to work. The temp sensors seem to work (temps fluctuate ~.1C). My next step is to make sure that the 24v from the PSU is working.

It feels close, but still a lot of work to do yet it seems.

Again, many thanks for all the help so far.

2 Likes
6

So I metered the 24v, and it seems the 24v bed out does not seem to output any voltage at all.

The 24v inputs seem all fine, but when I try to set the bed temp, the bed output seems to do nothing.