Thanx, that wasn’t clear in what you wrote originally.
Now, how are you wiring power to the EBB36 and the toolhead?
I would bet it is just a plainly broken heating cartridge.
- It goes up to 60°C something degree and not further
- If a 24V cartridge is only powered by 5V most likely nothing would happen in terms of temperature
- Worst case, magic smoke comes out of the components supplying the 5V
Edit:
And in case of an overloaded PSU, it would shutdown and the error symptoms would be totally different.
Edit 2:
And in case of an overloaded printer board, the MOSFET would burn and it should be clearly visible. Also it would be some kind of one time fun, since afterward nothing is heating anymore.
I’m reacting to the shallow slope of the temperature trace. Personally, I’ve never seen a broken heater cartridge perform this way; normally it’s binary and works or doesn’t work. However, it’s probably the most likely culprit and easy to check - @kui013 should replace the heater cartridge in the hot end.
I don’t think you can say that the heater cartridge only goes up to 60C - if you look at the klippy (6).log provided by @kui013 you’ll see that Klipper shuts down because the Heater extruder no longer approaching target 210.00.
Depends on the PSU. A modern Mean Well, would definitely shut down, an old discrete component one (I have several 12V bulk supplies like this) that would only shut down from an electrical overload because they’ve become a puddle of copper and iron on the floor. Even while overloaded these supplies will output a lower voltage output and try to do its best (which often means more than 5V out which keeps the digital logic happy).
Regardless, I try not to assume anything and ask until I get an answer.
Again, not necessarily, I’ve seen a lot of overloaded components over the years that that have no exterior damage or indication that they have burned out.
In any case, the first thing @kui013 should do is try a new heater cartridge.
With a PM I actually got this:
I’m wondering if the printer can even home.
If not, the PSU seems to be the culprit.
Well, this is bad and hard to diagnose if you do not have the proper knowledge and tools.
Could be the PSU, could be the board. Hard to tell
A working heating cartridge should have a temperature change rate of ~2°C to 4°C a second.
2 Likes
Side question:
What is your mains voltage do you have in your country and to what value is the PSU set?
One pretty hands-on approach could be:
- Disconnect everything from the PSU
- With a multimeter, measure its no-load voltage across the V-out (+ /-) clamps → Should be 24V
- Take the heating cartridge out from heat block
- Put it on a fire-proof surface
- Connect it to V out of the PSU
- After a while, the cartridge should even start glowing red
- If not, measure again the voltage on the V-out clamps → If it is significantly below 24V then likely the PSU is faulty
2 Likes
That’s a concern to know someone wired a mains voltage thinking they were working with a low voltage DC output.
Does your power supply have 24 at the end of its serial number?
It should say LRS-200-24, the 24 indicates the output voltage. The heating slope on that hotend seems almost what I’d expect to see if a 24v heater cartridge was powered by 12v.
Wait a minute. There is an SSR between high voltage and low voltage section.
These are more secure than a mechanical relay.
Or what is your concern?
This is a schematic. From electrical engineer point of view, this is proper. Even the heated bed is grounded.
Of course, you are right, it is properly done (IF and only IF connected like shown in the schematic)
The issue is: Lacking the proper understanding and THINKING your bed is running on 24V while it is running on 110 / 230 mains voltage can be deadly
Even more so that on many SSR the mains voltage clamps are not isolated.
3 Likes
Yep, got you.
Sometimes I’m a step ahead… 
Anyway, I’m surprised that there aren’t more accidents here (or just no reports). So many people are messing around with line voltage on homebrew printers without the slightest idea what they are doing.
1 Like
Malicious tongues say there are no survivors of such accidents who could report about it… 
Joking!
It is really important to give warnings on such wiring topics especially for newbies!
1 Like
Given occasion: Working with Line Voltage (110 V / 230 V / >50 V)
Over the years I’ve seen a number of reports of people burning out things or trying something that a reasonable person would know wouldn’t work; one guy that wanted more power to his printer so he wired it, incorrectly, to a (North American) dryer socket that ended very badly but he didn’t lose his house although he couldn’t live in it for six months while the damage was being repaired.
I think the reason why you don’t see problems here is fourfold:
- Klipper and the discussions here are primarily software and configuration based.
- Modern (and approved) AC power supplies are pretty safe with auto shutdowns that are a lot faster and reliable than fuses.
- Most printers have a single (approved) power supply with straightforward wiring from an (approved) power element module. I know this is not necessarily true with situations like the Voron where you have line voltages for print bed heaters and a second 5V power supply for Raspberry Pis but even these are relatively simple as well as being well documented and use modern, approved parts.
- People are embarrassed when they do something stupid and don’t report it except in kind of a “I learned from…” way. The reason why I know about the guy with the dryer plug is that he announced it beforehand and went ahead despite people telling him that he should at least consult an electrician.
main power supply 220V 10A
I feel like we’ve been piling on with stories about people with various bad power supplies - sorry about that.
Now, how are you powering the EBB36? Also, what guage (as well as solid/stranded) wires are you using to power the EBB36?
sillicon wire 22AWG
i powered the ebb 36 with 24 V 10A power supply separately , but i still having the same issue “verify the heater error”
Wire gauge should be okay.
Are you powering the EBB36 with the same power supply as your main board or is it separate? Sorry, your post makes it sound like it is a separate supply.
Could you post a drawing of how you’ve wired the main controller board and the EBB36?
Have you tried another heater cartridge?
I’d propose a structured approach to verify that the basic components work as expected:
- PSU and heater cartridge, e.g. according to Verify heater error in hot end - #27 by Sineos
- If this works, then wire the heater directly to the main MCU instead of the EBB
- If this works, then you already limited the number of potential contributors
1 Like