What are the steps for faster printing?

General Discussion
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Basic Information:

Printer Model: Prusa i3MK3S+
MCU / Printerboard: Einsy
Host / SBC: RPi 4

Describe your issue:

One of the reasons for using Klipper is via Inputing Shaping, one could print faster without loss of print quality. So, what is the proper steps to take to do that?

  1. I have used Input Shaper to automatically find the max acceleration for both X and Y.
  2. I used the Calibration method in OrcaSlicer to calculate the Max volumetic speed and PA.
  3. I went to Printer Settings->Motion ability to increase the Maximum speed X and Y as well
    as the Maximum acceleration X and Y. Do I need to increase the values for speed Z, E and acceleration Z, E, extruding and retracting, and max acceleration for travel?
  4. Under Speed, I increased the Accelerations and Speeds.

What else do I have to do?

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Is it not fast enough yet? I’m not really sure what you’re trying to accomplish.

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Buying an industrial machine?

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It does not seem to print any faster than the original i3Mk3S+ with Prusa firmware. Maybe I did not set the speed and acceleration settings correctly? What are some recommended values for this Prusa printer?

Do I need to do anything with the E and Z related parameters?

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I might add, Klipper is an amazing firmware, but not magic. My Klipperized Prusa has plenty of mods on it for speed, and I still rarely go above 200mm/s and 10k accels. At some point you’ll hit a hardware limit on how much speed you can squeeze out of a printer. My newly build Voron 2.4, on the other hand, is designed for much higher speeds, so I’m easily able to go to 300mm/s at 60k accels on there.

For the Prusa, there are a couple things you can do to print faster, just keep in mind that it’s usually a lot of small improvements that improve speed, so it’s not usually immediately visible that improvements are being made.

The first thing I would recommend is checking your cooling settings. Here’s a brief overview of the settings I found to be most important (for PLA):

  • Min/Max fan speed threshold (Fan speed) PLA requires a ton of cooling so keep this at 100%
  • Max fan speed threshold (Layer time) Set this to ~10s. If you notice your overhangs suffering, increase this. If you want a bit more speed, decrease this.
  • Slow printing down for better layer cooling This does say “slow” in the name, but enabling it helps a ton with overhang quality.
  • Don’t slow down outer walls I enabled this so that my outer walls were always printed at the same speed, reducing the gloss/matte finish you get when printing fast or slow on the outer walls.

The next big thing is checking your slicer preview to see if your printer is really moving as fast as you want it to. Brief overview of how I use each of the preview “layers”:

  • Speed Check your outer walls and top surfaces to see if they’re going as fast as you want them to. If not, check a few other layers to see why.
  • Flow If you notice parts of your print getting close to your set max flow rate, that could be a reason why the slicer is slowing down your print.
  • Layer time If you notice some layers are getting shorter, and closer to your cooling speed threshold, your slicer is likely slowing down your print to improve cooling.
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Some general remarks:

  • Klipper won’t perform miracles and transform a basic bed slinger into a high-end 4WD coreXY with 50k acceleration.
  • Klipper generally improves print quality even at higher speeds, but it doesn’t overcome existing mechanical or design limitations.
  • Prusa firmware is well-optimized for Prusa printers. I can’t say how much more Klipper could enhance this setup.
  • Although “E values” don’t directly influence performance and depend on the overall printing/movement speed of X and Y, the quality of the entire extrusion system significantly impacts results.
  • Z speed rarely affects outcomes unless it’s extremely slow.
  • Pushing to the bleeding edge of speed requires considerable experience. Some pointers are provided in @3dcoded’s post.
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Thanks. For the Max volumetric speed, using the Calibration tool in OrcaSlicer, I calculated it to be 21 mm^3/s. Is it true that if I want strong functional prints, I have to reduce the value?

Basically, strong functional prints is the first priority. Second is the appearance as I have OCD. Finally, if I could increase the speed without affecting the previous two criteria, that would be nice as most of my prints take 8-12 hours.

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Volumetric speed is generally how fast you can push solid plastic into the hot end and have molten plastic come out the nozzle. Setting this value at the absolute max for the material/hardware means that it comes out of the nozzle “barely” melted. That tends to result in poorer layer adhesion and weaker prints.

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Thanks. If I followed the steps in Max Volumetric speed and the calculated value is 21 (with conservatively reduction of the flow by 10% to ensure print quality), what shall I put in Orca Slicer? I am using a E3D Revo High Flow 0.4mm brass nozzle with High Flow Heater Core 60W.

Calibration · SoftFever/OrcaSlicer Wiki

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You can leave it at the max. It’s just an upper limit, so that if you specify a print speed that would require a higher volumetric flow, it will reduce the speed so you don’t exceed it. Just try different print speeds until you’re happy with the results. For instance, you may not care about max layer adhesion for infill, but you might for perimeters. Just adjust until you like the results for whatever the print is. Then you can save that profile and adjust as necessary depending on your needs.

On my modedd Ender 3 I generally do perimeters at 60 and infill at 100 for PLA, slightly slower for PETG and ASA.

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Currently my print speeds are:

Outer wall: 15mm/s
Inner wall: 150
Small perimeters: 50%
Small perimeters threshold: 9
Sparse infill and Internal solid infill both: 150
Top surface: 100
Gap infill: 30
Support and Support interface both: 80 mm/s

Acceleration
Normal printing, Inner Wall, Travel all: 1000
Outer wall and Top surface: 500
Bridge: 50%
Sparse infill and Interal solid infill: 100%
First layer: 300

Jerk all at: 3

Even at such low speed, even printing the first few layers, it seems that there are some sort of uneven extrusion. As you see in the picture, there are a lot of big dots. Anybody knows what is wrong and how to fix this?

[Album] imgur.com

Even I have just replaced a new nozzle and heater core, for unknown reason, it stopped extruding filament in mid-air in the middle of the print jobs.

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It looks like you may have some basic calibration items to take care of, such as extrusion rate and print temperature. You should also check to make sure the extruder isn’t grinding your filament or squashing it. Also make sure your filament is dry.

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Thank you. I have done extrusion rate and print temperature calibrations already. Speaking of temperature tower, the levels all look the same to me. What does that tell me? Any temperature in that range is fine?

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I don’t know what range you used for the tower, but if it was a wide range then either something went wrong and the model was printed at the same temperature, or other problems are masking the differences.

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I just used the default range set by OrcaSlicer.