Hello, after performing Input Shaping and Klipper automatically saved some values to printer.cfg, what is the proper procedure to tune the slicer so that the resulting prints can be completed faster yet the print quality and strength are excellent? I am using Orca Slicer.
Generally you set your inner wall, solid infill, and sparse infill speeds to the max speed your hotend can handle. The E3D v6 on the Prusa can do 12mm3/s, so with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height that’s 150mm/s. I’d recommend 60-80mm/s for your outer walls and top soild infill. First layer should stay slow.
For accelerations, I set my outer wall and top soild infill to the max acceleration recommended by input shaping. First layer should be half that, and everything else should be as fast as you can reliably go without getting layer shifts.
Carefully work through the entire Welcome! | Ellis’ Print Tuning Guide. This should get you started. Note that some sections are strongly focused on Voron printers, but 99% of the content is generally applicable.
For X, EI was chosen by Klipper. accel <= 3100.
For Y, MZV was chosen. accel <= 3700
Shall I use 3100 or 3700 as the max acceleration? In OrcaSlicer, it does not distinguish X and Y in the Speed and Acceleration sections.
By default, OrcaSlicer set the Inner wall and Travel accelerations to 10000. Does that mean if I don’t lower the value to 3100 or 3700, I get ringing?
In OrcaSlicer, there are many speeds besides inner walls, sparse infill and solid infill. What should values I set them to?
I read that increasing the printing speeds reduce the strength of the printed objects. If doing functional prints that require the parts to be able to handle heavy weights or large forces, what suggestions do you have in regard to acceleration and speed settings?
You can leave those high. It’s really only the external speeds that matter.
Small perimeters doesn’t really matter. Gap infill also doesn’t matter thanks to Arachne perimeter generation. Support settings should stay slow.
I don’t really touch my speeds and accels for strong prints. I just increase the number of perimeters and sparse infill density. You can also increase temperature a bit.
Note that these acceleration values are not recommended for your specific printer. They represent the maximum values beyond which the given input shaper causes significant smoothing.
Without any offense meant or implied: You seem relatively new to 3D printing. It is a complex process involving firmware, materials, models, and slicers and a lot of experience. Therefore, I strongly recommend reading through applicable guides to gain a basic understanding. The link provided above is an excellent resource.