I think the problem you are having ia because your bed mesh or the z offset doesn’t save to configs. On my configs i just calibrate the bed mesh, calibrate the z offset with a piece of paper and then run the SAVE_CONFIG command in the terminal.
вт, 9 янв. 2024 г., 13:32 AJolly via Klipper <notifications@klipper.discoursemail.com>:
Excuse my BULLSHIT sneeze, they release their firmware source so they know people will flash the boards and have no way of telling if that’s what you did anyway. Even if you sent a bad board back with custom firmware, who do you think is going to try to pull said firmware from the board to inspect it.
In fact, first time I delt with their support I was sent a free board and stepper. Neither was my issue, but I remained silent as I was told gifts were on their way and thought to myself (eh, that’s worth me just fixing whatever it is myself). And it was, as I rewrote a ton of their hacked Marlin for the Kobra Go, the board was tremendously valuable to me. 
Sorry if this is already covered, I haven’t finished reading the posts yet. I just got some popcorn as I cozy in and learn things, I have actually been eager to find out about the Neo 2. Sorry 2 Kobra Neo, no Kobra 2 the Neo, We got snakes in the Matrix that’s all the matters.
Let’s have coffee someday.
I spent months on that garbage, the Marlin code is so insane because of that board.
OrloDavid/HC32F460: HC32F460 ARM Cortex-M4 Device Family Packs HDSC HUADA / XHSC XIAOHUA (github.com)
OrloDavid/Orlo_3D_Printer_Stuff: Anycubic Kobra Go & Neo TriGorilla Gen V3 Mainboard (github.com)
Even when it’s all running on Klipper it’s like some minor little issues still creep up in regard to those stepper drivers and the wannabe 2209 addressing.
BTW did you know those are not 2208’s? They are a Chinese knockoff SK chip, much like the Huada MCU, which kind of sucks against an STM.
I did see a hardware mod on a different board for UART and found the spot on each chip (empty resistor spot) to do the mod but what I couldn’t see or figure out is how did they cut the connections on the board? Because currently those lines are going to something Mux’ing signal from the MCU.
If your curious its the 2nd from the right, on the bottom row of each chip if looking at the board and can read Trigorilla. I didn’t spend enough time to trace them down.
I second your response, if you find you spend enough hours on that board you will realize it costs you so much more in time, just go to Aliexpress and get a BTT board. I bought the SKR3 for under $70 with drivers but haven’t installed yet due to so many other projects in motion.
In the future run a live distro from a USB stick to save yourself a trip.
Fr man💀
How did i completely forgot about this one old usb drive at the back of my cabinet with already flashed windows 10 made for diagnostics and recovery of your main os?
The probes aren’t the best either, some act wildly different to a heated bed. Mine broke wires just moving around naturally because it’s like 2 stands of thin copper wire when it should be a couple dozen.
It becomes obvious quick that the engineers had a giant white board that read “PENNIES SAVES DOLLARS” in all caps and were forced To pick the absolute lowest costing part every time.
I can’t complain, I got my Kobra Go for $109 shipped to my door and then Anycubic mailed me a free Mainboard and Stepper because their support staff is lazy AF and just wanted to mark the ticket resolved. I don’t even recall what the issue was, it was something dumb, but again no complaints on what I paid for vs. what I received, with emphasis on the I’s.
I don’t know if the Neo 2 has the same Z sensor (not probe) as the Neo and Go but I stopped using it long ago on Marlin and then stopped on Klipper which was a real treat figuring out. I have some battle wounds and “Thanks Klipper” on my heavily scratched bed, not really sore about it though because I love open source and Klipper has achieved a very respectable amount in a very short time.
It was what I call the “Klipper Doc M.O.”, which is “oh and while you’re doing that you should also do this, moving on over here and continuing…” all the while giving you no links or explanation of how to do said thing.
In my opinion, I’ve been printing since 2016 and I’ve rammed the head into the bed more times than I can count, But I can tell you exactly how many bed sensors I have had go bad.
1- arrived dead in the mail
2- Anycubic the wires broke off, re-attached twice, still working, yes I have a new one and I haven’t been in a rush to install it because I’m only afraid of the wires breaking again but not the sensor actually going.
Reason that’s important is because you are setting your bed mesh and height with one sensor then starting the print with another… just saying.
That wouldn’t have worked though, Need a live Distro. I would gleefully watch Windows attempt to run on an old USB stick though. I’m not sure even 32GB of RAM would make that happen correctly without tons of loading.
I dunno, been a while since I’ve been a sys admin. Maybe it just works. All I deal with now is Cisco, Cisco router for your Cisco switch to your Cisco AP’s and Cisco phone, lemme get you a Cisco coffee while we read the Cisco paper 
Hey look at that, Cisco stock is up. haha
Have a Cisco day
Anycubic kobra 2 neo uses the same sensor to probe and to z home, in klipper configs it is called virtual z endstop. You can look at my configs in the configs section to learn more.
Like, there is no actual z endstop
It becomes obvious quick that the engineers had a giant white board that read “PENNIES SAVES DOLLARS” in all caps and were forced To pick the absolute lowest costing part every time.
The virtual Z end stop is if you don’t want to use the mag switch and only the probe.
My god was that a fun one to figure out.
The part you add to your config looks like its formatted in a way that it is its own line (text:text)but its not so the value ends up looking like (text: text:text).
However, the thing that really tripped me up.
You have to delete
position_endstop: X
Not sharing how much time I wasted overall on that one 
Hey, I’m trying to install klipper on my kobra 2 neo. What should I set there?
I’m pissed I’ve been telling them that it’s probably a stepper or a board issue for the last 3 weeks, and tech support keeps asking me really dumb questions like have you tried setting the z offset yet.
Can you explain what you’re saying about the " issues still creep up in regard to those stepper drivers and the wannabe 2209 addressing.
BTW did you know those are not 2208’s? They are a Chinese knockoff SK chip, much like the Huada MCU, which kind of sucks against an STM."?
And yeah I’m starting to get tempted to just throw this out and say hell with it and get a bambu. Especially since I saw someone who got TPU working on the AMS light.
(I ran some tests where I
set the z offset once,
only did a z home once,
heat soaked the bed,
then printed the same square over and over and over, with no nozzle or bed cooldowns, and watched the nozzle position gradually change from being too low to perfect too much too high.)
Hello and welcome. You can find firmware.bin file here and you should use my configs from here. If you have other questions then feel free to let us know here. If you have any configs suggestions leave them in the configs thread.
If you just want to get a free motherboard and a stepper motor iust say then that your z stepper doesn’t move at all now and because they are lazy af they will probably send you replacements for both lol.
heh maybe ill try that next. Where I started -
“The printer seems to gradually lose its position over the course of a print, so it thinks it needs a lower and lower z-height offset. I preheated the bed, and reprinted the same square out to try and figure out z-offset. I manually edited the gcode, so it only homed the axis once, and never turned off the stepper motors. The bed/nozzle stayed at the same temp throughout, even between prints. Yet it seems to slowly need lower and lower z-offsets. I suspect it’s the motherboard, but it could be the stepper motor too.”
Them - uh we will send you a new bed!
me - great that solves when the printer tried to eat the bed, but how does that solve my current problem?
“Anycubic: Have you tried setting the Z offset value when starting to print the first layer?”
5 emails later…
“Anycubic: Please click to set the Z offset value when you start printing the first layer.”
I know exactly how to dial in a perfect first layer offset - by printing a 1 layer thick square, and adjusting the z-offset so it’s perfect.
The problem is the printer itself is gradually losing position over the course of a print.
In my video I printing the same 1 layer thick square over and over so you can see that it’s losing position. (the z-offset keeps changing). This shouldnt be happening!
??
“Anycubic: If there is no automatic leveling, please check the Z offset value before starting printing each time and record it. Has the Z offset value changed?”
I’ve worked with help desk teams for a couple decades and have been on both sides of that.
On one hand, they don’t get paid much, they have a set of standards they need to follow, and boxes to check so they deserve a little bit of a break. Most of them are just starting out in the field and make about what a McDonald’s worker makes.
On the other, yes, it’s frustrating but sometimes you just need to play the game and it still holds true, more bees with honey (I don’t even think that’s true, but the meaning holds weight). Keep your cool, pour on the niceties, might be surprised at the outcome.
My drivers don’t apply to your board, I apologize. I was attempting to make a reference to the quality of the board. These things are cheap, we know their cheap, they are mostly easy to upgrade and mod.
You could go to the extreme like I did to resolve my Z issues, only use probe and than I changed how the Z is setup
(3) Centered-Z Mod Revision 2 for Cartesian 3D Printers : Azyn_One (reddit.com)
This is in both Marlin and Klipper correct?
If you search my posts, you will find one where I didn’t have the following Z settings in my .cfg
max_z_velocity:
max_z_accel:
which was causing the Z to move down too quickly, and the stepper would lose steps, this would happen at the start of a print.
Prior to Klipper (Marlin) I had issues with the sensor I mentioned. I had forgot until I moved back to Klipper and re-enabled it. Then stopped what I was doing until I was able to get the probe by itself working. Beyond that, it was just your typical single Lead issues that I assume most face,
did you try to check and fix x gantry? Axes - Kobra2Pro Insights
I have tried flashing this .bin file as named, renamed to firmware.bin, as well as another bin file in this thread, and I can’t get them to take. Turn off printer, insert card, power up, wait 5 mins, power down, remove card. Connect USB… unable to connect to MCU. Insert SD card back into PC, bin file is still bin, not cur. What am I doing wrong?
try to change filename. it must not match the last filename that was flashed. eg. 0116240218.bin …