Getting orange pi 3 lts + klipper working with anycubic kobra 2 neo

General Discussion
162

This is in marlin, I have not tried klipper yet on this board (figured id rather get it working properly stock).
They did replace the ABL sensor (not that the abl sensor can have anything to do with my current problems)

The printer is square, used some set squares etc to check, but again, that can’t have anything do with my current set of issues.

Yeah, I understand the hazards of working the help desk, so ive been trying to be patient. I did finally ask if they could escalate the issue to someone.

I don’t think the probe can have anything to do with my set of issues, since the probe is never used after that first z-home (to the best of my knowledge).

Theres no extra pins we can use for a hw z-stop is there? (was thinking i could at least repurpose the filament runout sensor pin)

163

Just cleared the sd card, reformatted to fat32, put bin file on card with new unused name, and still no dice.

164

From my experience, I would advise against that route…

The settings don’t carry over, meaning you’ll essentially be doing all the same work twice. My persistence with Marlin was mainly because I spent months fixing the AC source to re-enable features and clean it up a bit.

Important Note: The very first thing you should do is disassemble and then rebuild the main assembly. It NEEDS TO BE DONE IN ORDER (sorry for shouting, but it’s crucial). You’ll never get the gantry correctly aligned unless it’s done this way, unless there are 6 eccentric nuts, which would be problematic. If the outside 4 nuts are eccentric, it’s vital to start in the same positions, and any adjustments made to one should be mirrored on the other nut on that side of the gantry.

My Procedure for Building:

  1. Install Upright Extrusions:

    • Install both upright extrusions and just barely snug them.
    • Leave the top off of the upright extrusions.

  2. Assemble Gantry:

    • Loosen both inner eccentric nuts.
    • Leave the 4 screws that hold the gantry to the roller brackets 1/4 turn backed off from snug.

  3. Insert Assembly:

    • Let it rest at the bottom.
    • Just barely snug the inner rollers and check the space on the outside rollers. Is there a large gap on both sides? You can adjust the uprights in or out while tightening them for minimal adjustments.

  4. Tighten Uprights:

    • Uprights should now be tightened.
    • Check fitment again. If there’s still space, adjust the brackets holding the rollers and snug them up.
    • The outside rollers should touch without being forced by the inside rollers.

  5. Final Adjustments on Inside Rollers:

    • Just barely snug the inside rollers once the above steps are completed.
    • Confirm you can move the gantry up and down freely with the top plate off.
    • Check if the alignment appears the same. If not, something isn’t seated correctly and should be square.

  6. Top Plate and Final Snug:

    • Push on the top plate to fully seat it, but don’t tighten yet.
    • Move the gantry back to the bottom and give the rollers your final snug.
    • Roll it to the top and snug the top bolts.

This procedure might seem lengthy, but it’s crucial for avoiding continuous issues with even the slightest misalignment.

1 Like
165

I don’t recall, does yours say “Updating Firmware” on the screen?

If not, and this may sound like a dumb question, so I apologize, do you have the option enabled (If using Windows) to see the file extensions? Otherwise, you would be naming the file firmware.bin.bin but from your perspective it would appear firmware.bin

I ask because I’ve seen it before at work. You can check by deleting the .bin and see if the icon changes and you get a prompt saying something like “are you sure you want to change the extension?”

166

OK, flashed it back to stock, LCD works again and it has the usual stock UI. I had tried flashing to stock with a differently named file, didn’t work, renamed to “firmware” and loaded to Anycubic UI as expected. Strangely, the .bin file STILL stays .bin, not cur.
At this point, I put the Klipper bin on the card, named 01152024.bin, and turned the machine on, machine loaded to normal Anycubic UI. Shut it off, renamed 01152024.bin to firmware.bin, and tried again. Screen says “updating firmware”, then goes dark. I wait a minute more, just in case, and shut down, pull card, plug in USB to BTTPad7, and… nothing. Cant find MCU.
lsusb shows no sign of it, and dev has no /serial/ folder again. I verified all USB port names and the rest of the BTTPad7 setup with my N3Max, which works fine. Something about this firmware flash isn’t working on this machine, or I’m missing a detail.

167

Yeah, removing the .bin removes the file type until I put it back. Good idea though.

168

My mistake, I thought you had posted earlier in the thread, you might want to start a new topic for your issue specifically. This thread is getting a bit long and I think is covered a few things which makes it difficult for anyone to see what’s gong on in it.

1 Like
169

I have tried making my own pornable input shaper with rp2040-zero mini board from aliexpress and the cheapest adxl345 with good rewiews i could find. RP2040 that i received was perfectly fine and i could flash it with klipper in just 1 minute or so. But the accelerometer was 100% dead. Not even a single sign of life lol. I think i would need to wait another month for the another one.
image

170

Are there Auto Level and Module Calibration options?

171

where? can you make your question more specific?

2 Likes
172

It’s about the 2 and 3 option from below.

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What works with these options?
Does the filament sensor work?

173

There is no aut-level options in stock marlin firmware. If you want tomanually adjust the aut-leveling sequence you should consider flashing klipper. You can use the .bin files provided by j0tp3 and my printer configs. Module calibration setting is used for auto-calibrating your nozzle z offset and i’ve never been using a filament sensor before so cannot tell you more info about that. Good luck!

174

You can explain to me how in your Klipper compilation you can set the nozzle on the table height sensor and how to calibrate? In the original K2N software, this is what Auto Level and Module Calibration are responsible.

175

I am not exactly sure what do you want to know. But anyways, here:

Calibrating the Z offset:

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Auto bed leveling:

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And then you should (important) run the save_config command in the klipper terminal. The result should look something like this:
image
image1919×1002 184 KB

If you still have any questions left then feel free to ask here.
(By the way you can use the google translator next time :grin:)

176

Thank you.
How to set the nozzle in the middle of this sensor, i.e. in this eye?

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Screenshots that you gave above are from what overlay Klipper?
So you have to manually enter the command in the terminal to make a level and save the result?

177

I am not really sure how to do that, klipper may not have the functionality to do it.
@Sineos please, we need your help. Can you give me a sample config? (if it exists)

178

I have been using mainsail for the screensots, and yes, you need to write it to console manually to save your calibrated values. Also you’ll probably need to modify your slicer gcode a little bit. You can take my start gcode for this purpose.

179

No idea. As I do not own this printer, I not even know what this thing is and how it is supposed to work in the original firmware.

Wild assumptions:

  • It is used a z-endstop
  • You could use something like
    [safe_z_home]
home_xy_position:-10,-10 # <--- position of the strange thing
    to home to this but it requires the switch to be defined and used as z-endstop
  • Probe is then used only to build the mesh
  • To make any sense out of it, it would be mandatory to know the offset between this pad and nozzle / bed and it needs to be stable
180

The center of the button is around 64,230

181

But how to set it? Is there any option for this?
Correction is individual in each printer. This is not a fixed value. I checked it on 2 printers on the original software.