Makerbase Robin Nano 3.1 won't flash

General Discussion
41

I’ve done what you two have said. I was originally using the generic Robin nano V3.1 config copied to printer.cfg.
I was moving motors but not getting corexy results. Then this thread suggested I add the tmc-2209 drivers, giving samples I copy/pasted into my printer.cfg. I did, after the regular axis section. I’ve checked pinouts using the board’s silk-screened tables, found one pin related to 2nd ejectors miss specified, updated that, made no diff. I have not been able to execute a motor motion since adding the tmc-2209 stuff.

message from the octoprint terminal says the printer is shut down and the mcu is not responding when I issue a g28.
I’ve restarted klipper on the bpi5 many times, issued the FIRMWARE_RESTART, get a beep from he printer, no errors on the optoprint terminal, until I try to move a motor. Then I get a message “printer is shut down, homing failure” or “mcu not responding”, and no motor moves. The docs dir’s contents are little help, and I’ve read and done everything you asked. I send the logs after trimming them but they are ignored, I get yellled at instead.

Should I comment out those tmc-2209 bits and start over? I find no difference in the motor action when the jumpers are moved although I do recall getting some complaints from marlin about driver communications at one point. currently set for uart drive.

So, what am I to do except maybe order some BTT boards and try them. I also have 3 of the high voltage octopus boards from them, along with the 60 volt, 3 amp version of the QHV5160 driver. Would that be a better board for klipper? Any board replacement in the big tronxy will need all new electronic boxes made with separate dual psu mounts, no biggie other than I need a printer to make them.

I need a printer, so I also have a cnvoron trident, supposedly on a fedex truck someplace between their Memphis warehouse and here. It also makes the claim it works with PETG, but I now have 7 printers that made that claim scattered about the house, all destroyed because they won’t live more that a week when fed PETG. I’ve found a hotend that works, creality’s new $70 spider, but no one is putting it in a printer, not even creality.

Have I miss-built the firmware for the nano? That question has not been asked, and answered yet? How do I check that its actually built for a corexy machine? I ask because the klipper/.config used to make the controllers flash file, is not the printer.cfg and contains no reference to the kinematics. Is all that done by the pi?

42

sigh
Your config is looking good:

  • It lines up with the official pin map for the board (at least on my spot checks)
  • You need to fix the erroneous pin in the extruder (as already mentioned above): uart_pin = PD8 → uart_pin = PD9
  • Klipper is able to connect to your board with a valid serial → Firmware on the board seems OK as well

For the IFCNT errors:

In addition make sure:

  • The board is powered by the power supply and not USB
  • The driver modules are correctly oriented and seated
  • Verify the 5V setting of the “Drive IC Power” jumper

Also provide the exact manufacturer of these TMC modules (also as already requested above).

43

you asked for the log, here it is I’ve rebuilt the flash and reloaded the printer, not change, not even temps are working now.
klippy.log (54.4 KB)

44

?

Did you check these points? Do you have problems checking these fundamental things? Just ask!

45

The board is fully wired up in the printer, motor Z2 is presently plugged into the 4th motor socket, which is paralleled with the 3rd drivers output ack Makerbase.

So should I double the current for Z? It feels awful soft at .8 amps. The driver has not ever heated enough to tell.

supply voltage is 23.59 volts on a DVM and you will get separate reply’s because FF or discord will not show me your msg while I’m editing a reply So I’ll post this and reply to the next question separately.

46

#1 they are
#2 yes, 5 volts on that jumper, and the jumper measures at 4.83 volts on the same DVM.

47

This is all hidden by the heat sinks when installed so I’ll send a scan of the top of one from kit #2 if xsane works with bullseye, and yes it does
tmc2209_scan

Its a bit out of focus because the pins are holding the pcb about 2mm above the glass, the scanner is normally around 1200 dpi sharp, it is in the top of a Brother MFC-J6920-DW, and is a full tabloid sized printer/scanner.

48

jumpers_Y
jumpers_Y5152×3864 488 KB

if that is not uart mode, plz advise, the silk screen on the other side of the board is wrong. But I have a hard time trying to visualize that by mirroring what is on the other side of the board. To test that, I moved all 5 jumpers to the other pairing, and now get no response for any gcode command such as an m995. Zero response so I moved them back to where you see them, and now I get the no mcu msg in the octoprint terminal for an m995 No temps show either, everything is 0.

I’m lost.

49

A more recent problem is that some update to armbian on the bip5’s has broken make. From the error messages,
gene@bpi51:~/src/klipper$ make
/home/gene/src/klipper/.config:13: *** missing separator. Stop.
its looking for $MS style line endings, which it will never find on linux. Line 13 is the first active line of that file.

50

You are kidding me, right?
My quite simple questions took like two dozen posts to get answered and the UART jumpering you confirmed in post 16 is now completely void …

image
image1920×1482 441 KB

For sure no armbian update did this.
Honestly speaking, for me it looks like you are simply messing around without any clue and then someone / something is to blame for the complete mayhem you created.
I have serious doubts that this leading anywhere anytime soon, since I’m also completely lost as to what you are actually doing here. This is like stumbling from one smoke-screen you are putting up to the next.

Run
make distclean
then try again.

51

same exact error, on two different bpi5’s. So I cannot remake the card image. Problem posted on armbian forum.

but, after moving the jumpers to where you’ve shown it is at least giving me a reason for the error. And that I can fix in print.cfg. brb. Fixed I think. At least temps are working, now to config_checks. I get to stepper_buzz stepper=stepper_y
but the motors still move in unison so the motion is x. inverted the dir pin on y, restarted klipper, upper belt is not moving now so stepper_buzz stepper=stepper_y is still x motion.
move my lamp out of the way and try a G28 acts funny. goes across bad at a jagged 45 degree angle, finds its switch at left front, runs to right til out of room, head toward rear but times out, not finding switch.
g28 x moves all the way to the front and finally finds the x switch
g28 y first moves all the way right, the starts to the rear, stopping about 60mm from the front saying switch not found after full span move.

That is progress but is also the extent of the Config_Checks.md.
Now I have finally found a .pdf from kicad that prints in dark enough ink to read it with a strong glass, and the pin nums in the boxes are completely bogus from what we are using for the v3.0 board. So I’ll send this, then bring my printer.cfg up to that version & retry all this. Why the hell do they have to hold this stuff so close to their chest.

from that box: | tmc-uart | | en step dir |
--------------- ------------------------|
| PD5 | X | PE4 PE3 PE2 |
| PD7
Now what?

52

and then discorse decide to post it WTF?

53

from that box: | tmc-uart | | en step dir |
-------------- ----------------------|
| PD5 | X | PE4 PE3 PE2 |
| PD7 | Y | PE1 PE0 PB9 |
| PD4 | Z | PB8 PB5 PB4 |
| PD9 |E0| PB3 PD6 PD3 |
| PD8 |E1| PA3 PD15 PA1|
------------------------------------------

So I’ll fix my printer.cfg to this and see if its any better.

54

So much for trying to format it pretty.
Anyway, the problem still persists
Homing y does work regardless of the Y dir pin PB9
G28 z works correctly. G28, g28 x, g28 y are fubar
both heaters work have not warmed it up for extrusion.
printer.cfg (2.7 KB)
Did I screw it up anyway? Printercfg attached.

Thank you Sineos.

55

one other question that needs clarified. In the .config used to build the firmware, I have not yet checked pin nums if they are even used, but I did change it from cartesion to corexy. Do we have the firmware corexy battling our printers corexy?
No response from armbian re the broken make yet. So I can’t fix that. I get the same error on another bpi5 with a fresh klipper+octoprint install.

Cheers Gene

56

You are aware that these are exactly the pins I posted here Makerbase Robin Nano 3.1 won't flash - #12 by Sineos and which we are using all along? This is exactly what I was talking about in the above post. Only noise across multiple posts without any added value.

Try inverting the y-direction, i.e. from

[stepper_y]
...
dir_pin: PB9
...

to

[stepper_y]
...
dir_pin: !PB9
...

Please always just attach the klippy.log file unless otherwise mentioned

Did you move the klipper folder to the src folder or did you have it there right from the beginning?

57

changing the sign of y_dir make zero difference as to how it works.

One of those bpi5’s it is ~/src/klipper, the other fresh install is in ~/src/klipper3d/klipper

both are reporting exactly the same error, an strace of make -d shows 6 attempts to find make.mo in /usr/share/locale/various versions/ of en-utf8 which I find does not exist in any en* variation. line 13 is the first active line of the .config.
error is
/home/gene/src/klipper/.config:13: *** missing separator. Stop.

I just got the voron trinity, box damaged, no assembly instructions. Not even a cd. IDK if they leaked out or this is a new IQ test. ;o)>

Tomorrow is wasted, I’ll be 75 miles north in Morgantown getting my annual ticker checkup. It has a 6 yo pacemaker tickling it, and a 3 yo replacement TAVR aortic valve. If they don’t keep me for more stents or??, I’ll check in tomorrow evening when I get back.

Tace care & stay well Sineos.

58

Not exactly the same:
/home/gene/src/klipper3d/klipper/.config:13: *** missing separator. Stop.

59

I assume you mean Voron Trident, and I would strongly encourage you to return that kit or sell it. That printer requires a strong understanding of 3D printers in general, and Klipper in particular. Reading through this thread I don’t believe you’ll have a good experience with that printer kit.

In case you’re curious, the documentation for that printer is online (Voron GitHub).

60

[jakep_82] jakep_82 https://klipper.discourse.group/u/jakep_82
January 10

gene1934:

I just got the voron trinity, box damaged, no assembly instructions.
Not even a cd. IDK if they leaked out or this is a new IQ test. ;o)>

I assume you mean Voron Trident, and I would strongly encourage you to
return that kit or sell it. That printer requires a strong understanding
of 3D printers in general, and Klipper in particular. Reading through
this thread I don’t believe you’ll have a good experience with that
printer kit.

In case you’re curious, the documentation for that printer is online
(Voron GitHub).

Got it, 300+ pages, printing now. As for 3d printers. I have a house
full of them, some 3+ years old, built a Prusa mk3s+ about 18 months
ago, and am in the process of rebuilding this SP-5, and an Ender5+, and
a tronxy-400-pro that came with a broken Marlin and has never made a
print except 5mm above the plate mess. But with some bracing and CF
tubing to reduce flying weight, should be usable when I get done, at
250-350 mm speeds. If not faster. I need them all running in order to
make the PETG stuff for a huge wooden vise screw for woodworking
benches, carving the screw on a 6040 gantry mill I threw away the
electronics of and put much better stuff on it driven by LinuxCNC with
gcode I wrote I’ve been using LinuxCNC since it was EMC in the late
90’s, so I do know my way around this stuff. I am also a CET, about 1 of
for every 100 EE’s out there. My biggest problem is poor short term
memory as the thinker is now 88 years old. It takes my mill just over a
day to make the screw because it doesn’t have a tool changer, but on the
Prusa, over two weeks to print the rest of the plastic. For one screw.

You can see an earlier version of the vise screw on my web page link at
the bottom of my signature. Not a big fancy page, its actually this
machine. No commercials.

Visit Topic
https://klipper.discourse.group/t/makerbase-robin-nano-3-1-wont-flash/5579/59 or reply to this email to respond.

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Cheers, Gene Heskett.