or better if you have
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Yes, better the latter oneā¦
No, no, no!!!
And that has nothing to do with, that you are from Belgium 
Everybody comes from somewhere
Iām talking about a cheap simple multimeter for 5ā¬ from ali.
From your answer, I understand, you are no electrician?
Letās do that together!
Electricity can easily kill you!!!
Gotcha, that I can do! I have a multimeter so Iāll test it this evening.
Iāll check with both PSUs as well just to see if that is still a variable.
me ? , yes i am electrican (bt ht and tht ) and electronican 
, sorry for understanding , my maternal language is french
What is āelectrican (bt ht and tht ) and electronicanā?
Iām a television technician and later on studied it.
May I ask. why you measured with that āin my eyesā crap?
My French is just good enough for small talk in a bar. But if you want it in French. Iāll give it a try
But French might be counterproductive in this forum.
Easy, stay friendly, ok?
Trouvons une solution pour @jake_161 .
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no I didnāt measure anything, I was showing what a ātesterā was, even if itās basic itās enough to see if there is a current leak :), otherwise I use fluke, philips, agilent , hp, ect (I have my electronics lab)
the idea being to see if it came from a current leak
after to be more precise it is indeed necessary a better device and some notion of electricity to deduce from where comes the concern
bt is ābasse tensionā = low voltage , ht is āhaute tensionā = high voltage , THT is ātres haute tensionā = very high voltage (150kV and high ā¦ ) i my ālicenseā for this
my older job is audiotechnican for music event (30 year ā¦ ) the leakage current is lot of all day in this job
solution , @jake_161 check current and voltage leakage ground in this installation (home and computer/printer setup )
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Iām totally cool and want to solve his problem.
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Hi maddoc,
my intention is to solve your problem.
Measuring would and keep you save.
Right, thatās what we are talking about.
Yes, cheap multimeter should be your choice.
Sorry, that was too cryptic for me. no offense.
Ok, so we are āalmostā the same. There is no video without audio 
Cool, set it on solved.
Sorry, read your post before maddocs last post.
you mismach , this is not my post , i not need help ^^ but jake_161 needs help
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Too much writing and too sleepy 
Thanks for the hint, I hope our conversation may help @jake_161.
So I checked the voltage coming off the USB casing and it was exactly 12v. It seems my USB is dumping straight from the PSU. (No wonder its overloaded lol)
Iāll do some digging to see if I can figure out a cause, but please, let me know if you guys have any thoughts!
BIG DISCOVERY!!
I was checking continuity between the positive and negative 12v input on the board (The 5A one) and it seems that it is intermittently shorting. When i wiggle the wires a bit, I get continuity. Wiggle again and no continuity. The moment I get continuity between them, I also get continuity on the ground shielding of the USB B port. So it seems that if I could fix the short at the terminal, everything will work as normal!
Here is a picture of the continuity between the positive and negative terminals. Iām assuming this should be zero?
printer off ? , what mode your tester ? , if is not volt on screen , but ohm ! you are in diode test mode , no ok
in ohm mode , check negative pole supply , and metal chassis (screw , motor mount , or other part in contact with earth )
if 0ohm to 10ohm , good , if infinite or + to 100ohm no good
you master psu is 12V output ?
if you have 12V ,positive and negative out , and not stable if you shake wire , possibly bad connection , or wire broke , check this thats
I was using the continuity testing mode, it would beep intermittently when testing the terminals even with no wires connecting them. After rewiring I still go the overload issue.
I have purchased an SKR Mini E3 to see if the board swap fixes the problem. Weāll see!
you have test leakage current in computer to printer ? ( one probe of tester in earth of computer ( ex : nue case steel or screw) and other probe to earth of printer ( ex= shield of usb ) tester in 300Vac mode before , and second test in 300Vdc mode off course , testing with usb cable NOT CONNECTED to printer!! and computer and printer ON
Although I very much appreciate the willingness to help, I would prefer to keep such āelectrifyingā topics out of this forum:
- From around 50 V onwards electricity can be lethal
- My general advice is to stay clear of such topics if you are lacking the needed background and instead search for professional help
- We cannot keep anyone from electrocuting themselves but we can prevent anyone doing so because he followed some well-meant advice from this forum
I know, you will now say āwe are only working on the 24V rail currentlyā, but:
- This is a matter of principle
- We know nothing about the surrounding, e.g. protective earth conductor (do we have one? is it working?), circuit breakers, earth-leakage CB etc.
- We know nothing about the used equipment, used measuring devices etc.
Finally nobody here and even less the boardās official want to end up in some liability discussion should something unwanted happen.
Exact, and I understand that the forum does not take responsibility but if he has a earth problem, anyone who touches a metal part in his home will be in ādangerā, if this is the case he must have an electrician come to solve it. the problem of its installation before doing anything else! if no earth concerns, he simply has to change his 12V power supply (or have it done)
See, this is exactly what I meant:
- We are not here to speculate about such topics. We know nothing about the surrounding and quality of installation nor do we have a mandate to work on it
- You @maddoc might be entitled by law to work on such topics, as well as I would be
- The OP apparently lacks the knowledge and training
So, the above was a polite way of saying: Please stop right here and now.