Would be happy to assist
Hi @DaVinci10 - Would you be able to help me with a guide on how to flash Klipper firmware to my Da Vinci 1.0a - I have Repetier host frimware on it at present… but doubt that the Arduino IDE method will be useful for Klipper flashing?
Much appreciate your help!
I’d luv to help. You can DM me here or on Klipper discord channel.
Hi, I think I managed to flash my Da Vinci 1.0a with klipper.bin as I could detect the MCU via the serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_sam3x8e_203120514D304C4E3230303035303231-if00 - used bossac.exe tool.
However, when I connect to the printer via a firmware restart, I immediately receive this error:
MCU ‘mcu’ shutdown: ADC out of range - Any idea where I should start to look?
Yup, that issue is the thermistor table from another user, he was trying to use voltages vs resistances in his tables. So far I’ve had success with the following, although I’m still hopeful of getting a decent temp gun ( not a forehead model lol ) to validate the temps. But it does melt plastic so I know its in the ballpark 
[adc_temperature DAVINCI_ext_adc]
temperature1: 25 # This one is working, odd temp curve @200c
resistance1: 100000
temperature2: 200
resistance2: 5000
temperature3: 260
resistance3: 1800
[extruder]
sensor_type: DAVINCI_ext_adc
pullup_resistor: 51000
control: watermark
[thermistor DAVINCI_bed]
temperature1: 25 #good so far
resistance1: 440000
temperature2: 40
resistance2: 200000
temperature3: 150
resistance3: 25000
[heater_bed]
sensor_type: DAVINCI_bed
pullup_resistor: 51000
control: watermark
edit: It was good talking to you on discord. catch me up on your progress.
@DaVinci10 just picked up a 1.0 pro for cheap, saw this thread, and i have a multimeter with a thermocouple… one i get set up here in a few days, i can probably confirm the resistance values and get those nailed down.
@multidest I was wondering if you ever had any luck getting the display to work on the davinci 1.0a
There was a bit of progress, but stalled out I do believe. The older character-LCD’s have been left behind unfortunatly… I’m running klipperscreen on an old tablet, seems to work
I’ve got my custom version of klipper here GitHub - multidest/klipper at winstar-display2 It’s not working quite right yet, but does have partial functionality.
My configs are here GitHub - multidest/Da-Vinci-1.0A: Davinci 1.0A Mods
Be warned, it’s very much WIP.
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@multidest
I was donated a Da Vinci v1.0A
Would you help me with the flashing process ?
I installed your fork of klipper, tried to flash via USB.
ls /dev/serial/by-id/* showed the board
but the flash wouldn’t take via USB.
Found online about a J37 jumper via Repetier FW fork.
instead I tried to use the onboard MicroSD card with the klipper.bin
That didn’t work, the printer operates as stock but now I can’t see it with
ls /dev/serial/by-id/*
We were donated the printer. We are a University club. I am not opposed to scrapping for parts but if it can run at all with klipper that would be nice.
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Sure thing I’ll see what I can do. If you’re not trying to get the LCD working, mainline klipper is fine. And so far the LCD is more hassle then it’s worth. I suggest using mainsail and fluidd web interface. It works extremely well. Message me on discord (same user name), I tend to check that more often. With a little bit of work, the printer can perform pretty well.
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hello, many thanks for this configs. i have one DAvinci 1.0 for a couple of days now…
for me, was very simple to start with this.
about temp and thermistor: i simple change the original thermistor with one of a ender3, (very cheap) and erase all config about resistance and that…: this is what i have with no issue:
#[thermistor DAVINCI_ext]
#temperature1: 22 # Works but fails to calibrate above 200
#resistance1: 100000
#beta: 2350.31
#temperature1: 22 # Gives Math Domain Error corrected with change to adc_temperature
#resistance1: 100000
#temperature2: 200
#resistance2: 5000
#temperature3: 260
#resistance3: 1800
#[adc_temperature DAVINCI_ext]
#temperature1: 22 # This one is working fine (edc eh?)
#resistance1: 100000
#temperature2: 200
#resistance2: 5000
#temperature3: 260
#resistance3: 1800
[extruder]
pwm_cycle_time = 0.0166
step_pin: PB7
dir_pin: PB6
enable_pin: !PB8
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 32.3232
full_steps_per_rotation: 200
nozzle_diameter: 0.400
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: PA13
#sensor_type: DAVINCI_ext
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F # Diegolgo: this is from ender3 usual thermistor
#pullup_resistor: 51000
pullup_resistor: 4700 # Diegolgo: this value i think need to adjust... work in progress
sensor_pin: PB20
#control = watermark # Diegolgo: disable
control: pid # added for PID calibrate
#tuned for stock hardware with 200 degree Celsius target
pid_Kp: 24.459 # Diego: taken from PID calibration
pid_Ki: 0.994 # Diego: taken from PID calibration
pid_Kd: 150.420 # Diego: taken from PID calibration
min_temp: -75 # Diegolgo: this is taken from some forum, need to adjust... work in progress
max_temp: 300
min_extrude_temp: 170
hope this for somebody, in my case it has very fun and satisfactory to work with this printer.
next:
- add fan for nozzle (layers) 5v from a notebook.
2.change the hotend, to a ender3 (because i have it…), with a very small modification, it can use regular nozzles. (i already do the beta test and mod)
note: no matter with firmware you use, with this printer, recommend always print for more than 50mm/s speed
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Really glad to hear it. Another DaVinci continues to live 
Still running stock at the moment, but I’m getting ready to do some mods finally. Starting with a new bed
With the flex sheets that are stainless steel on the back, I can flip it over and mesh the conductive bed with the nozzle as probe. You see the aligator clip that is temporarily attached to the old bed screw below.
Here is a quick vid of it in action
i only do that for now (in order: fan 60mm to nozzle. dual fans intake (have molex to conect), and cover for rubber bands
to do:
1.- proper interruptor for fans, to not use molex and conector like plug and unplugg use… (not use for PETG, and ABs, and full to print PLA+) OR MAYBE software controlled… with some of the unnuse fan conection on motherboard…
2.-change bed: i broke the glass… is on the way a Fr4 bed (i think FR4 G10 is the best of the best bed , even better than magnetics etc. and i think i gonna change bed heater to…
3.- change heater nozzle pack (i want to stay with direct extruder, so i need to think this very carefully to mod, but with that condition)
4:.
meanwhile: i study a lot about configs, conections, klipper etc, to not change the motherboard (i have the one with pluged drivers steppers, and SD card… so is different and no info about ir YET…
FYI The one with pluggable drivers was the original 1.0 and 2.0 (not 1.0A or 2.0A) I’ve have seen later 1.0.0’s with the newer non-socketed drivers. but none the other way around.
thanks, this is 1.0 original… i dont know how to classified to other way…
is working fine for now, i have a minor defect on layers (like stairs…) but nothing to big.
(0,2 layer heigth, speed 120 mm/s on all layers and infill, 0,48 width (think is too much), 2mm retraction, 0,8 z hop,
still trying to clean, and test, but is printing acceptable
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https://www.printables.com/model/393668-simple-z-bandingwobble-test-tower
z-support1_fixed_slic3r.davinci.gcode (1.3 MB)
I had that way back when, but I added this part to the top of the z screw, it seemd to help. There is also a counter weight bucket that hangs from the back of the bed carrige, also to counter z wobble. I attached, but have not had to resort to this one,
One final thing is the rod bushings on the right hand z rod are usually found loose and can be attributed to banding as well. one thing you can do is remove the right rod and holders, remove the bushings and wrap a single layer of electrical tape around each bushing, and reinstall.
this guy printed some spacers you can just stick in there…
Davinci-1.0-Z-AXIS-Counter-Weight.zip (240.5 KB)
edit: I went back and found the one I use for Z. I attached the original sliced gcode from the way back machine. last updated 8-22-14
z-support1_fixed_slic3r.davinci.gcode (1.3 MB)
You can see it in this pic
the orange piece, was one of the first thing to print for this printer… i do not see wobling… but any way
for the “spacer” im not quite sure if i follow the idea…there is a litle space, but is difficult to “make” this wobling , or generate that a issue… im gonna try any way.
still i cant clean fully, it came with LOT of dust…
PD: i already change the bed for FR4, G10 yellow bed. it works GREAT, (i have another printer, with that material for print… and for me is the best material for beds…) so, with my broken glass, was the time to get this upgrade.
im using this, to print PETG, with very good results. still moving some parameters to improve details or smooth layer, but works fine for working pieces, tools, that kind of things
heres is support for filament sensor for bowden printer (nozzle stock 0.4, T235°, bed50°, 100mms, layer heigh 0.12) 2 hours, no post processing of any kind
still have some holes, but very smalls… no need to worry.
PD2: i print a holder for gear of filament, and a simply put in the back )i cut 1 of the panels…)
TUSH - The Ultimate Spool Holder by filamentry - Thingiverse (it use 4 608 regular bearings…)
im very happy with this, and gratefull for the work of klipperizing and share the first print.cfg.
maybe the “next” step is use some how use the screen… (some times is necesary, for me only to see % of print completion, so is only stetic.
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I wanted to point out one small oversight that seems to be different here. On the DaVinci Jr 1.0a, The z-stepper appears to be configured for 1/32 microstepping while the rest are 1/16th. Since it’s using the Toshiba TB62269FTG stepper drivers, D_Mode0, 1 and 2 all appear to be pulled high which would indicate 1/32th stepping. All of the configurations I’ve seen claim that it’s 1/16th all across the board.
Also, if you REALLY wanted to, you could somewhat easily enable 1/32th microstepping by soldering a surface mount resistor to the other stepper drivers’ empty pads and adjusting the firmware accordingly.
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d337z, I appologize. I didnt realize you were talking about the Jr
Did you get the Jr flashed with Klipper?
(And wow I apprently havnt posted in awhile… sorry about that)