Z-axis not stopping when probe lights goes out

Basic Information:

Printer Model: Neptune 4 Max
MCU / Printerboard: BigTreeTecht Manta M8P v2.0 + CB1
Host / SBC: Mainsail

printer.cfg (6.7 KB)

Hello,

i Have been trying to set up my Probe on My 3d-printer but it keeps heading straight for my heatbed without stopping. I am reusing the Probe from my Neptune 4 Max here is the datasheet:
gx-f_h_e_cata.pdf (3.2 MB)
I have it on a 12V and the correct Jumper is selected

the LED on the probe goes out on a specific point (4mm) despite the Z_offset in the printer.cfg [probe]. but that is ok because there is still ~1mm room between my heatbed and nozzles at that point.
(the probe does detect metal objects but not my finger)

At first i was using the DIAG for the Z-axis but that kept returning “endstop z still triggered after retract” so i moved on to the probe, because that is also what i need for leveling. but now it keeps crashing into my heatbed. (I did build a Z-stop at 0mm nozzle tolerance so that my extruder wil stay intact)

Hello @Jasper !

Please provide the klippy.log that was initially asked for.

it doesn’ t give an inmediate error, so i guess this is the correct file then:
klippy (2).log (4.4 MB)

I got it from Machine > Logs > Klippy.log

here is my probe:

This is a PNP Output, and for my board I need to select a jumper for that.
I will try that when I get home and report back.

As for the datasheet, the probe has a stable delectation range of 3.3 mm to the metal surface. I hope there is no glass above this.

grafik

You may decrease the z_offset a bit more. And though the position of the probe.

No there is no glass plate, just a magnetic heatbed with a PEI plate on top.

As for the z_offset, i played with that alot so that is not the case. and i triggerd it with other object ‘mid air’ and it didn’t stop.

How have you wired the probe?

It is rated for Vss 12 to 24 V. Do you directly go to the input pin, or do you have an adapting circuit?

i have it wired directly into the board.

In worst case you have killed the input pin (PD8) by putting 12 or 24 V to it when triggering.

In the BTT Manta m8p user manual they use 24v as and example. So putting 12v on it wont kill it i assume.

And i dont think 24V is neseccaey because they said “e.g. 24V” and my probe functions fine at 12V

Remember i still need to try the jumper, but i am not home atm

It’s about the input pin of the printer board. They are usually rated for 3.3V

As indicated by @EddyMI3D: The voltage on a typical board MUST NOT exceed 3.3 V or it will damage the MCU (very few are 5 V tolerant)

If you supply an inductive probe with 12 V then you will also have 12 V on its output pin.
Depending on the probe’s type, there are two correct ways to connect them:

  • PNP: With a diode (fast Schottky recommended, BAT43 or BAT85) on the signal line, blocking from the probe towards the pin on the board
  • NPN: A voltage divider that is correctly calculated to reduce the supply voltage down to 3.3V

I will try that, but strange that BTT doesn’t specify that in their manual.

this is how they show the wiring in the manual, 24 volts
and NPN is without that small jumper in the middle

This is correct. BTT is apparently offering a dedicated circuit on this board allowing direct connection of such probes:

They secure the actual pin with an optocoupler, which is the “advanced” method compared to a simple diode.

So I should be fine with my current wiring?

Looks good. Follow Configuration checks - Klipper documentation to verify general functionality.
It needs to report “triggered” when close to some metal object and “open” otherwise.

Checked those before and after adding the jumper i was talking about earlier.
And it reported ‘open’ before and ‘triggerd’ after adding the jumper and homing the Z-axis worked perfectly after that, no errors!

DO NOT FORGET!!
don’t forget to add “homing_retract_dist: 60” to your Y-Axis for homing your printer because your probe need to be above your heatbed (for me 60mm was needed). otherwise it will still crash into the ground.

Why don’t you use:

https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#safe_z_home

As it is always done when you home with a probe.

because it will require more thinking and cofiguring and this method is working.

What is so difficult with that?

You select a proper point on the print bed and you are good to go. And never forget to move thy y-axes. Klipper is doing that for you.