Hello all wondering if anyone experiences this. I struggle to remove my prints off the bed and this causes my Zoffset to be off everytime I try an start my print again . I have to readjust it otherwise prints lift of the plate. I can honestly see how this occurs as the prints are always very difficult to remove without disturbing the bed level. I mean its pretty aggresive so I am wondering if I am doing something wrong. Any tips or tricks?
Printer Model: ENDER S1 PLUS
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This is, in the first place, a mechanical issue. Seems the bed is mechanically so unstable that you have this issue.
Generally speaking:
How hard a print sticks to the bed depends on:
Material of the bed
Printed filament
Bed temperature
z-offset
Especially the z-offset plays a big role and is depending on the filament. E.g. PLA is happy with a lot of “squish” while PETG requires much less and you might even “weld” the filament into the bed causing damages upon removal
Glue sticks like Magigoo can improve both bed adhesion as well as facilitate removing the build
I’m pointing that out befause Elmer’s glue sticks are 20x or more cheaper than Magigoo and can be found in basically any store with school supplies. For PLA, works just as well and can also be cleaned up from the bed surface with a warm/hot damp cloth, just like Magigoo.
I get a large size and a single wipe of the glue stick is usually good enough if you’re having some lifting problems.
Fully agree. PVA itself is a lot cheaper but at least to my experience, Magigoo and Co are easier to handle and especially on the “special” ones for Nylon or PC it makes a difference to pure PVA.
ABS slurry also works nice. Welcome to the 21st century alchemists. 3D printers are able to turn money into plastics.
Agree, I have been chasing mechanical issues, however I can’t pinpoint what it it’s. I have started with my mechanical bed leveling that’s why I installed the Klipper firmware, to use the “tilt, rotate, adjust” and the visual bed mesh features to get a better understanding of my printers bed.
So far, I completely redid my mechanical bed level, I went back and made sure I have at least a 66 percent compression on my springs as recommended. Also realized my toddler tortured my printer a few times and messed with the belt tension knobs on both my y and x axis so re-tentioned those, which begs me to ask, how do we know what is a good tension?
I do also have one more observation, not sure if at this point it’s just me however, I am currently printing a 6in sq peace. When observing the start of my print I feel and see that the front side of my print “squishes” more so it’s flatter than the back side of the print. The back side I can see the line mating of each pas through. However, according to both running a “tilt, rotate adjust” my bed corners are all under 5degrees of the baseline. And my mesh ratio is under .5. again this maybe me since I’ve been staring at this for weeks now… But it’s a bit puzzling.
Any ideas what else I can try if this doesn’t help?
Again though thanks for the details in your initial response and yes I Need to back off on my z and use a glue stick, although I always assumed that be harder to remove the print…jaja
I have a similar phenomenon except it occurs left to right. The left side of my bed tends to print with the nozzle further from the plate so that there’s less squish. My probe is mounted on the right side of my toolhead and I’ve noticed that the area where this happens is generally in the front-to-back “strip” where the probe can’t reach. Applying the axis twist compensation helped some, but in general, I try to arrange my prints to simply avoid that area if I can.
If it’s more gradual than that, try setting your bed corners to different locations, such as not directly over the screws. Sometimes the corner probe points can be unreliable, which means that the bed reports as being properly trammed even if it’s not. You could also try a denser mesh resolution. I’ve had pretty good results with 7x7.
It’s something to check. Maybe before changing your configuration try doing the paper test over your existing corners, then commanding the toolhead to various locations near that corner and slide the paper under the nozzle and see if you get a consistent level of friction at each point. Then do the PROBE_ACCURACY test at each of those points and see if the results are consistent. If you get consistent results with the paper but inconsistent results with PROBE_ACCURACY, that could help you confirm whether your corner probe point is reliable.