Anycubic Kobra Max config file

Configs
63

hello can pass me your printer.cfg for the kobra plus please ?

64

Thanks for all.
Last issue: when I send a file to print, after extruder and heater bed reached nothing is happening, no print. The printer works well. the controls for bed leveling, home position, all head movements (x,y and z) work perfectly from the Sonic Pad.
where am I wrong?

65

I think I know where the problem comes from: my bed is too low; it is below 3mm (-3mm). How do you reset the level of the bed in Sonic Pad?

66

Hello. I also have the Sonic Pad, the Vyper is now running on it and the JGaurora A5 works perfectly. I created a cfg for the Kobra Plus myself the last few evenings. It’s a hybrid of Kobra Max and Vyper.

I’m now so far that everything moves correctly, all end stops are recognized and everything else works.

Only my extruder is running backwards. How can I rotate in the cfg?
! is in now
^ he does not accept the extruder.

I have to get the Z Probe under control next. And I would be interested to know if the Auto Bed Level works for you? I’m not quite there with the Kobra+ yet. but on the Vyper it works fine…

but will compare Digedi’s cfg teste6. if mine is going well I’ll share it with you here… Greetings

67

Hello @BennyB !

! is for inverting inputs and outputs. → you may try without that with the dir_pin
^ is to activate a pullup resistor and is only valid for inputs.

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68

In the printer config file I modified z_offset:
[probe]
z_offset: -3.4
Now my Bed Level is about level 0.
The whole sequence goes well (temps extruder and heater bed reached, draw the first an second lines on the left edge of the bed) and then head goes to the ceneter of bed, print nozzle touches the bed and after that nothing happens. The printer seems to be frozen (no movement of stepper motors).

69

I was having all kinds of issues with my Kobra Plus (Trigorilla 1.0.4 board with the HC32F460). Configured using wiki/documentation directions for the HC32F460 for flashing the micro controller, etc. Tried a few configs and combinations from here and some reddit posts and had some really janky Y layer shift before looking at the TMC drivers page on the wiki/documentation and disabling stealthChop in favor of spreadCycle (also as recommended there turning off interpolation). The steppers were then giving me a bunch of noise but, also per that TMC drivers page, upping microsteps to 64 seemed to make them nice and quiet.

Running calibration cubes and things were pretty decent, X and Z were right at that 20mm mark but Y was at 16mm. Z wasn’t behaving at 64 microsteps (I suspect I needed to adjust rotation_distance for it to fix that issue, will probably circle back at some point), but I left X Y and E at 64 for testing and they seem ok. All of my rotation_distance settings were 40, but due to my Y being only 80% of the 20mm, I dropped it to 32 and its printing right on.

I did move R65 to R66 (see an earlier post in this thread for what that means, I can only use two hyperlinks here I guess…) so I’m going to go ahead and say that’s required if you want to use my below configs, or have any success with this.

Here’s what I’ve ended up with (currently tuning pressure advance but you’re probably going to want to do that yourself anyway). These seem to be giving consistent, fairly x/y/z/e accurate, prints.

Two reasons I’m posting these:

  1. maybe help someone else?
  2. someone can tell me how stupid I am with some of the settings I’m trying here. I’m new to Klipper, fairly versed in Marlin.

I think my bed centering might be slightly off yet, I probably need to mess with that a little, additionally I need to add a priming line before the print starts, but hey, I spent a bunch of time getting this working so hopefully someone else benefits :slight_smile:

1 Like
73

Now I have NTC abnormal alll the time even if temp is ok. In Klipper I can ignore short errors in reading that’s strong point to run Klipper on Kobra Max. No more ribbon cables.
kobra_max

74

@lucasv Bonjour,

Unfortunately I don’t think so, I asked everywhere and it only worked WITH soldering. but you don’t have to change a cable… “only” solder the PIN’s.

greetings from Germany

1 Like
75

For the folks looking for a Kobra Plus config, here’s the one that I’m working on. I used the source code for the stock firmware as a reference for it. It has the full 300x300 print area, centered on the bed.

76

Crenwick35 and others
Can someone give me a walk thru step by step for the Kobra MAX
Also can I plan to modify the printer to be 400x400x750 print area will this firmware be able to be modified to handle this?
I have a project that im working on and need to print a ~25"(640mm) tall part

I am great with the physical and mechanical but am not a programmer by any means

77

So forgive me if I’m wrong. But the soldering required just creates a jumper between the two points on the board, correct? Got a Kobra Plus in desperate need of better firmware

78

The jumper move (from R65 to R66) changes the UART address for one of the TMC2209 stepper motor drivers allowing it to be accessed by Klipper.

Not doing the move will result in Klipper not being able to access one of the TMC2209 stepper motor drivers and will throw an error.

79

Can someone post pics of this mod?

80

So remove the jumper, move it over, then solder it in place?

81

Yes, once done then Klipper will be able to interact with the steppers correctly.

82

Alternatively use my fork which works without soldering: GitHub - Jookia/klipper at tmc2209f

83

What do you do in your fork that gets around the (apparent) inability to correctly address the TMC2209’s UARTs?

84

I don’t read from the chips. This works fine in practice.

85

So you set the current manually using the pots on the TMC2209 modules?

It’s a lot easier to move one resistor.