Extrusion diff between part printed withe Marlin, and one printed by klipper

General Discussion
1

Basic Information:

Printer Model:
MCU / Printerboard:
klippy.log

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Describe your issue:

Printer: Two Trees Sapphire 5
stm407 on mks-Robin_nano_V3.1, replacement board for a V1.2
Part printed by Marlin, weighs 200 grains, octoprint server
Part printed by klipper 76.6 grains with flow turned uo to 200% in octoprint
by my calcs thats 1044.4% in extruder counts as set by Marlin.
Dunno where it came from but extruder Rotation_Distance in printer.cfg is now 33.500.
What should it be now in printer,cfg to get a part weighing 200 grains?

Thanks all;

Cheers Gene

2

BTW: What extruder do you use?

3

Stock on the SP-5, a titan I think. Apparently not proud of it, all it says is dual drive extruder on it.

I took a SWAG, set it to 8.5 looking pretty good if I can keep the nozzle tight. Hardened steel cuz I use some cf stuff too.
Does anybody have any recommendations about temps when tightening a steel nozzle?

Thanks Eddy

4

Be sure to follow calibrating-rotation_distance-on-extruders

My personal procedure:

  1. Remove the nozzle
  2. Extrude 50mm of filament
  3. Cut the filament at the heat block with an accurate side cutter
  4. Measure the cut off filament
  5. Calculate new rotation as per above link
  6. Repeat from No. 2 to verify

Edit: Make sure to disable all additional extrusion modifiers (like in Octoprint) before doing the calibration.

5

Rotation distance for a titan should be around 23.52.

6

no where near enough for whatever this geared down gizmo is, I’m possibly a little fat at 8.5, will try 10 on next print.
current print, just started, will actually make a lighter part than marlin made with the same gcode. And it is doing it thinking its driving Marlin.

Disappointing also is the fact that cura does not have klipper as an interpretor choice. But I’m making progress on restoring my ender 5 plus, now that the SP-5 is actually making things again, with an all new Y drive, and plans for a servo42C for X all on a cf rail with a linear bearing for X. Y will is now driven by a nema 23 3 phase 1NM stepper/servo. I’m tired of that puny Y motor losing home as soon as you try to run it faster than 75mm/s.

Thanks for the suggestion though, I appreciate it.

7

I will follow this, but not till tomorrow night as I have no more boron nitride paste till amazon delivers late tomorrow.

First, I’ve got to figure out how to tighten a hardened steel nozzle and have it stay tight, I’m engraving the build plate glass with a loose nozzle’s extra length.

I’ve run it all the way up to 259C and probably over 5NM (nobody makes a socket with only two sides so the teeny little end wrench is it) and its at least a full turn loose and leaking like a collander at the end of a 2 hour job at PETG temps.

Since it won’t do anything but strip trash in the extruder at 235C indicated, I’m beginning to suspect the thermister type may be wrong also and its not running as hot as it says in octoprint.

This self unscrewing of the nozzle is not something I have noted with brass nozzles, including diamondbacks. Its also hell to clean the trash out of the extruder from its stripping.

Ideas on how to solve that are most welcome. The paste will probably harden and seal the leakage, but is there a recommended cure time and temp before putting working pressure on it?

Thanks Sineos