I just measured the voron cables the same way, finding a coil from 1-2, and another coil from 3-4.
Time to check some of creality’s junk.
ditto creality’s stuff. it the tronxy motors that are non-std. luverly, just luverly. Another pice if s I’ve $700 in.
So I just bought 5 of these stepperonlines for $45 on amazon, be here on the 19th. Comes with 1 meter cables too.
Try your luck:
- Make sure to really sort it according coil
- Removing the pins can easily lead to them no longer really locking in their plastic connector
I’ve done it that way but it can get bloody. The correct motors will be here tomorrow afternoon.
Thanks Sineos.
Bloody?
I just lift the plastic latch with a dental probe and pull the wire and connector out. Exactly what’s shown in the pictures @Sineos posted.
re-lifting the teeny little metal tab that locks it in the plastic has drawn blood nearly evey time I’ve done it, there is no way to get a dental pick or an exacto knife under the tab to bend it back out to act as the latch. That is what you are bending inward in the first frame.
I guess you could do that, but I’ve always just gently lifted the plastic latch (using a pin or dental probe) up and the connector slides out easily with a little pull on the wire.
Or is there something strange about your connector housings (ie they’re not plastic)? The ones in @Sineos post are exactly what I’ve always seen.
I don’t know if it’s just that you can’t win for losing.
I took around at the connectors I have and they’re all like a described with a plastic latch that can be gently pulled up and the connector pulled out:
I see the difference in the images that @Sineos took, but I don’t seem to have any like that.
Good luck!
exactly none of the connectors I have are built like that, every blessed one of them has a metal latch hat must be pushed in to unlatch it, then some how pulled back out of the side of the contact to make the latch work again,
I’ll take it back Myke, the 6 pinners on the new cables are like that, the 4 pinners are as I said.
Just as functional, but calling that a PITA to change is too PC for me most days.
Take care and stay well Myke.
Cheers, Gene
for a change, answer MY question because I now have 4 to 6 pin cables from 3 src’s
All different.
The pdf of this board, assuming the square dot is pin 1 says:
1=1B
2=1A
3=2B
4=2A
is the number the coil. or the phase of the coil?
Is the letter the coil, or the phase of the coil?
The cable that came with the stepperonline motors is not polarized, its plug is longer and black the other 2 are white
and polarized. It also seems to want a bigger pin, the fit is worrysome loose.
What I’m seeing.in the klipper log from the TMC error is a short on the b winding and an open on the A side.
Every drawing I’ve see shows the motor coils connected to pins 1-2 for one coild, and 3-4 for the other winding.
But what does 1 and 2 mean, and what does A-B mean. The new motors are all, after I found a good pair of test leads,
wired one coil from 1 to 3, the other coil from 4 to 6. And that connects the motors coils from 1-4 for one coil and 2-3 for the other.
Klippy.log, started from rm’d, restart klipper after powering up the printer, one click on the octoprint control for each xy direction and one final 5th click on the xy home button. The only reaction was a thump on the g28 click, but nothing moved, the shutdown was that fast.
klippy.log (74.4 KB)
So is the board expecting coil B on 1-3 and coil A on 2-4
Or coil B 1-2 and coil A 3-4?
A third option is coil A on 1-4, and coil B on 2-3?
Thank you all. Take care & stay well.
Cheers, Gene.
I hoped to have answered all your points here: Makerbase Robin Nano 3.1 won't flash - #118 by Sineos
Which one is missing?
probably nothing. I have dl and printed the datasheets on both drivers, and cobbled up a pair of cables that purportedly match the boards output which at this point looks like a coil on pins 1-3 of the output jack, and a coil on pins 2-4 of that jack. It will not attempt to move a motor from a fresh start of everything or at least I think it is fresh.
From the log it refuses to move because it not homed, so the the first command sent, g28xy, gets a click from the printer and an instant, no motion shutdown.
The errors are hard to find since it logs a couple lines on next clock per second.
klippy.log (195.1 KB)
Anyway, here is 200k of it. This is from a powerup, rm’d the log, started klipper, issued a g28 xy, stopped klipper.
Have I blown the tmc2209’s? I should add that this board has two Z motor outputs paralleled off the third driver, hence the 1.4 amp current setting as its driving two motors. I /think/ all the pin assignments have been restored.
Thanks.
Cheers Gene.
Since that didn’t work, I pulled the ejector motor cable and rang it, finding coils on 1-2 and 3-4. All s/b alike.
So I put the XY cables back that way. Now it moves for a g28 xy. all the fwd, hammers the front stop while moving x slowly left towards the switch, but not getting there before the shutdown.
Reverse a coil on the y motor next. can’t see any diff. Its 4:20 in the morning here, going back to bed.
TMC 'stepper_x' reports GSTAT: 00000002 drv_err=1(ErrorShutdown!)
TMC 'stepper_y' reports GSTAT: 00000002 drv_err=1(ErrorShutdown!)
Transition to shutdown state: TMC 'stepper_x' reports error: GSTAT: 00000002 drv_err=1(ErrorShutdown!)
The error message is unspecific in this case. Previous messages clearly pointed to the stepper, e.g. open coil etc.
Could be a blown driver but hard to tell.
I’m diabetic, on enough metformin to kill a horse. So I was soon back up to take care of the side effects.
While back up, I played with dir pin polarity’s since both motors were moving if wired the same as the ejector.
Although the bed was a bit high, and the nozzle scratched the glass for the first layer its actually doing a small print.
So we can mark this subject closed. The next step (on this printer) is to hook up a 65 volt ac supply for bed heating, controlled by this controller, 20 minutes to get to 80C for a PETG bed temp is a PITA. Its also another subject.
Thank you very much, take care and stay well, both you and Myke. I have appreciated your teaching.
Glad to hear you’re working.
Good luck going forward.
That printer failed again, printing about 4mm up in the air. I’ll triangulate the frame and use it to build a real printer using a btt octopus-pro. There my be questions as that proceeds. Thanks all.