Pid_calibrate interrupted

General Discussion
1

Basic Information:

Printer Model: 1403/self-made/Behemoth
MCU / Printerboard: AR100/Recore A6
klippy.log
klippy.txt (47.5 KB)

Fill out above information and in all cases attach your klippy.log file. Pasting your printer.cfg is not needed
Be sure to check our Knowledge Base and in particular this and this post

Describe your issue: pid_calibrate interrupted

…

Hello…

pid_calibrate interrupted is my error when I attempt to provide this command:

PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET=60

I am basically trying to configure a new heater_mat that stated 12v while purchasing it. If this is not a Klipper issue and is hardware issue, I am trying to figure this out…

Seth

P.S. Anyway, if you see anything in klipper.log/txt, please let me know. I did a continuity test on the heater pins while the wires were attached to my board terminal connectors. I received sound which made think that the wires are okay for heating.

2

The klippy.log is quite short and does not include the issue.

Try again and when the issue occurs do a M112 via the terminal and upload the klippy.log again.

Check during the PID tune if the bed heats at all.

1 Like
3

It seems you are running a (quite old) modified version of Klipper. Update to latest main line and see if you can reproduce the error.

4

@EddyMI3D ,

Okay. I will try again and again.

Seth

P.S. I receive errors when the bed is heated w/out the PID_CALIBRATE command.

5

@Sineos ,

Yes. I am running an outdated/modified version of Klipper. I will update.

Seth

P.S. Here is the updated klippy.log.

klippy.log (827.7 KB)

If you need any other info, please let me know.

6

This is also not an original Klipper version.

Generally:

  • Your error is ADC out of range
  • I would take out following temperature settings one by one and see if the error remains
[temperature_sensor cold_junction]
[temperature_sensor voltage]
[adc_temperature current]
[temperature_sensor current]
  • Otherwise it probably makes sense to contact the developer of your Klipper version
1 Like
7

@Sineos ,

Okay. I will contact them. Thank you.

Seth

8

Hello @Sineos ,

Okay…this has to be put on hold. My PSU is underrated for wattage/power. This entails not enough for the 450w heater_bed.

Blah. Sorry to jump to conclusions.

Seth

9

Are you sure it’s rated for low voltage?
Even with 24V it takes 18.75 A

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10

@EddyMI3D ,

I am sure. They stated 12v/24v supplies work at 450w. So, roughly 38A.

So, I will test it and see where it takes me.

Seth

P.S. I am waiting on a particular PSU this weekend. Hopefully, nothing gets in the way!

11

Hello @EddyMI3D ,

I just got what you are conveying here. High amperage on specific heater_beds may entail tripping circuitry not made for such high loads.

I think my board can handle 20A max but I am not quite sure of the heater_bed(s) wiring so far. I do not know if they are indeed passthrough or an issue relayed to other circuitry.

Seth

P.S. I may have stumped myself into knowing I made a poor purchase w/ this heater_bed item.

Anyway, I am waiting on a reply from the mfg. of the Recore. I think the heater_bed wiring may be passthrough and not an issue but I am probably wrong. I would probably need to alter some circuitry to handle the load.

Also…

I am on the market for a larger heater_bed that I can control off-board in case of issues like this issue when they arrive.

12

At least the error message does not look like a problem with the heater hardware. It looks like an issue with the temperature sensors. Alas, I cannot tell which one, so I would follow Pid_calibrate interrupted - #6 by Sineos

1 Like
13

Hello @Sineos ,

Thank you. I am going to go w/ the wattage of the heater_bed is too high and my PSU is not handling it well.

Also and luckily, the heater_bed adhesive was cheap. It was easy to remove it from the glass bed.

So, I do no need to invest in another piece of glass. Also, I am going to try a 110v pluggable, heater_bed this time and see if I can relieve some of the current to/from the Recore so I can use it elsewhere.

Seth

14

If you need 450W to run your bed, a 110V heater is pretty much mandatory. Make sure you buy a quality SSR to control the bed.

2 Likes
15

I measured a bit with 24V beds. What is the resistance of your bed, when you measure with a cheap multimeter connected to your bed? Your bed should only be connected to your multimeter! Please don’t expect a quick answer, I have to find my old measuring data on an old HDD. I have a feeling, what might be the problem.

Good luck, hcet14

16

@hcet14 ,

Hello…I am done. The bed in question has been discarded. W/ the 12v bed powered, I received 12.3 or something in that range or near it when testing the current from the terminal blocks.

Issue one: The old bed is done.

The new bed is a bigger issue. It was hardwired w/ shotty wiring and a loose screw in the housing of the three prong plug w/out GND. Bipolar? Maybe. Bad wiring. Yes!

Seth

P.S. I did manage to get rid of the older bed and almost fully remove it from the glass bed.

This heated_mat for a bed heater, the new one, might not get removed so easily. So, unless I can configure what they have done and solve it, I am sort of stuck w/ this heated mat (BROKEN one) on my bed. Blah.

I am just lucky that this three prong, 115v plug did not arc on me b/c of the loose screw and no grounding. Blah. I am lucky.

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